The Pearson Current
VOL. 3, #2
1996
Index for this issue
PUBLISHER’S LOG
ATOMIC 4 OWNERS GET SOME HELP
by Tom Stevens, Indigo Electronics
BILL SHAW ANSWERS THE MAIL
MEMBER NOTES, INQUIRIES AND TIPS
I must first offer sincere apologies to all NPYOA members—it must have appeared as though I had fallen into the Sargasso Sea of an administrative vacuum. I had decided to make a move to a different academic institution which entailed considerably more administrative obligations than I have been used to. This opportunity has turned out to be most challenging but much more time consuming than I originally thought possible. On top of that, I also decided to start a new division of my publishing company in the form of CityLegacy, a literary magazine on the history of the city of New York. The combined net effect of these activities temporarily put the Pearson Current in irons.
Not to be outdone, our internet service provider decided to sell out to another service. I decided to stay with them because they promised us a smooth transition and committed themselves to letting us keep our published address. That transition turned out to be anything but smooth. I do not think I had access to our own Web page for more than five days during the period from Labor day to mid-November.
Our on-line problems are, I believe, behind us and we now seem to have a better overall level of service. We were even given a refund on the monthly charges. I now want to update our page with enhancements that should increase its usefulness to NPYOA members. We are also a bit behind with our correspondence, but the next two issues should bring us up-to-date.
All is not lost for Pearson owners, however. I have had several discussions with the new Cal-Pearson people. We are trying to establish a working relationship to assist both organizations as we jointly work to increase the visibility and value of the Pearson name. I hope to have more information to report in upcoming issues of the Pearson Current.
I have also been trying to get the D & R people in Massachusetts to better organize their capacity to offer more technical information to our members. It seems as though the plans and many of the drawings NPYOA mem-bers have asked me for are finally becoming more accessible to us. Exactly how and under what format we will be able to get them is still under discussion by the principals, with some nudging from me. I truly hope they will be able to get this service up and running for us, and soon.
The NPYOA has secured a meeting room, time, and location for the Sail-EXPO in Atlantic City this year. Please be sure to write down the information on page 1, with particular note that the AC boat show is much earlier this year. I was not at all pleased with the facilities we had last year. I am pleased to inform you, however, that we were able to make better arrangements for this year’s meeting.
I would like to report on the NPYOA rendezvous in St. Michaels in August. We had a small turnout, but all had a great time. The Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum people treated us royally and proudly displayed their fascinating collection. I would like to have next year’s rendezvous in another region and seek volunteers to help set it up for us.
Thank you very much for your patience, I humbly repeat my apologies for having slacked off on my responsibilities to you. I hope all your boats are tucked away safely for the oncoming winter. As a closure to this Log, I will state that as a result of much of what I have reported above, I have only just gotten "Satori" out of the water. We did get one more cold but clear and invigorating sail in just before Thanksgiving. My warmest regards to all for a safe and enjoyable holiday season.
Wishing you smooth and safe sailing, Bill Lawrence
by Tom Stevens, Indigo Electronics
Owners of Pearson yachts equipped with the venerable Atomic 4 can rejoice with the introduction of new aftermarket products guaranteed to improve their quality of life at sea: an electronic ignition system, fresh water cooling that will fit within even the tightest engine compartment, a crankcase ventilation system, an oil filtration system, and an electric fuel pump. While none of the products are really new or revolutionary in a global sense, their application to the Atomic 4 is long overdue. Now you can bring your engine up to modern standards.
The first of these products is an Electronic Ignition retrofit kit for either the Prestolite or Delco distributor used on the engines. This product has heretofore been unavailable for the Atomic 4 and does a remarkable job of improving both the reliability and performance of the engine. The existing points and condenser are replaced with an optical triggering device which controls the generation of an ignition spark with solid state components. Once the kit is installed and properly set up, timing and dwell angles are fixed and never again require adjustment. Furthermore, there are no wearing parts other than the rotor and distributor cap. The kit is truly do-it-yourself with very detailed, step by step instructions which will get anyone through the retrofit process. Ignition maintenance is reduced to a bare minimum.
The second product, Fresh Water Cooling, is not a breakthrough in the general sense of the word but our system is unique and quite innovative. The system utilizes the same proven SENDURE heat exchanger as used in the SENDURE cooling kit, but does not require a separate power takeoff which has historically been an issue as most installations do not have any room available at the forward end of the engine for the takeoff. The Indigo unit uses a different approach in that the new sea water pump is driven from the same belt that drives the alternator with the new pump and bracket remaining within the existing engine enve lope. A prototype unit with a standard Atomic 4 alternator has been in service for ten years in order to obtain long-term operating data. No problems whatsoever have been experienced, no overloading of the drive train has occurred, and cooling problems are gone forever.
The next is a true Crankcase Ventilation System. All internal combustion engines produce blow-by gases in the crankcase. For whatever reason, Universal addressed this issue via a hose (flexible metal on the older units and rubber on the newer models) running from the lifter chamber cover to the flame arrestor on the carburetor. It works but not very well thus leading to smoke and oil vapor accumulating in the engine compartment. The Indigo system utilizes an aluminum spacer plate between the carburetor and intake manifold to harness the manifold vacuum to provide the suction necessary to eliminate these fumes completely. Additionally, the small copper fuel recovery tube which runs from the bottom of the carburetor throat to the intake manifold between cylinders #3 and #4 is relocated to the spacer plate to uniformly distribute the fuel/air from the tube to all cylinders leading to improved idle.
Fourth is an Oil Filter System. As you know, the Atomic 4, as built, has no filtration system except for the screen on the oil pump suction. The oil system dumps back to the sump about 40% of the oil pumped via the internal pressure regulating valve. The kit we are offering provides an off engine filter assembly to which this "excess" oil is diverted from the engine. This diversion is accomplished by "two-blocking" the internal regulating valve and then using the filter assembly regulating valve to maintain pressure. In this manner, all of the oil going back to the sump is filtered through a "spinon" type automotive filter. Additionally the inlet connections on the filter assembly provide 1/8 NPT connections for the instrument panel oil pressure indication (gauge or sending unit) and the safety pressure switch for an electric fuel pump. One very desirable feature of the off-engine design is that the filter assembly can be conveniently located to allow for easy filter changing as well as oil changing. Oil is returned to the sump via an oil return tube which is installed in the oil pan in place of the 3/4 pipe plug on the carburetor side. As this return tube extends to within about 1/8" of the bottom of the sump, the oil can be drained from the sump via this tube with a pump or vacuum removal system. Access to this oil removal route is through an access port incorporated in the relief valve assembly.
And last but not least is our Electric Fuel Pump. The kit provides a direct bolt-on replacement for the original mechanical pump and does not require an additional blank off plate. The pump itself is USCG approved and included in the kit is an oil safety pressure switch which only allows the pump to run when either cranking the engine or when the engine is running.
All of our kits are expressly engineered for the Atomic 4. As such, they are geared toward do-it-yourself installation and include all hardware and fittings necessary for a timely, professional installation.
For additional information or to place an order, contact Indigo Electronics, 10 Wayfin Circle, Newport News, VA 23606 or call 1-800-428-8569.
I have a Pearson 10 Meter, 1974 Model. I need a small piece of the mast, about 24 inches in order to sleeve my mast due to corrosion at the base. The corrosion has been caused by the use of a steel mast step and the aluminum mast without a barrier between them. Other 10 Meter owners might be interested in this condition.
I have contacted these companies: Hall in Bristol, RI; Metal Mast in Putnam, CT; New England Rigging, East Greenwich, RI; Big-Rite in Warick, RI. Only Rig-Rite might have a piece but they have not yet confirmed this. Do you know of any other possible sources? I would greatly appreciate a call back or a letter. I know that Pearson is no longer in business and BaySail in Fall River was mentioned to me that they were the buyer of Pearson’s inventories, but I struck out there also. Your newsletter is great and improving with every issue!
— Bob Hamilton, Winchester, MA
Dear Bob,
Like everything else in the world of production—model design, style, engineering and technology dictate constant change. At this point, we doubt that you will find a replacement part in stock. You have hit most of the suppliers we’ve worked with. If the corroded portion of the mast is small, you might simply square it off and then add a flat plate to the bottom to make up the length. This plate should have a means to secure it to the mast. If the corroded portion is longer you might have a sleeve made in a local machine shop. The sleeve should be attached to the mast with SS machine screws. Let us know how you make out.
I have a P-36, Hull No. 47 purchased in 1985. The "Portholes" are white plastic with a type of plastic "glass," which has developed severe interior crazing. Can this be replaced, or do you recommend new parts altogether? Where can I obtain suitable material and how is replacement accomplished? Your help is very much appreciated.
— William K. Duff, Mystic, CT
Dear William,
Without actually seeing your specific ports, it would be difficult to know exactly which manufacturer was used at the time yours was built. It would be best to consult the various boating catalogs and seek new ones that best fit yours. The plexiglass used in the ports can be replaced in most models but you might find it cost effective to just replace the entire unit. Let us know what you end up doing so that we can inform other members.
Please help me determine what pitch and diameter prop I should be using. I think my 85 P422 with W58 Westerbeke is over-propped. My max RPM with prop and hull clean is 2300 RPM. This equals almost 9K (with a lot of smoke). 18-1900 RPM seems best. This gets 7.5 K on about 1.7GPH.
I am not complaining about the speed, but concerned that the engine might be lugging. I am going to haul out in a couple of weeks, so would appreciate an answer ASAP. I don’t know what pitch and diameter I have now.
— King Benson, Knoxville, TN
Dear King,
Your best bet is to have a talk with the folks at Westerbeke. The relationship between prop, engine and boat is not one that can be altered without considerable thought and professional input. Other alterations to the boat that we may not know about might have added weight and therefore the new displacement would also need to be factored in. Do you get excessive vibration? 2300 rpm on its own is not excessive but with the wrong prop could lead to stuffing box and possibly drive shaft damage.
I am currently searching for a replacement for the vinyl molding (rub rail) that goes around the aft end of the motor well. It is such a simple PVC corner molding, but I have no luck in finding a replacement. Any help would be very much appreciated.
— Peter Fein, Princeton, NJ
Dear Peter,
Again, production runs just do not last forever. The boating catalogs occasionally have several types of moldings and you might check with any local boat builders in your area to see what suppliers they might be working with now. Some modifications might be needed to attach the replacement but you should find a workable substitute.
We recently purchased a 1981 Pearson 365 Ketch (Hull #370). I was hoping you or one of the members might be able to help answer the following question: There are four small trapezoidal shaped brackets on the stern pulpit—two on each vertical stanchion. They are about one inch across and one inch high. One is mounted about 9 inches above the deck and the other about 9 inches above that one. They are welded on the stanchions and thus seem to be part of the original equipment. Any idea what they are for?
—William W. Stark, Jr., Los Altos Hills, CA
Dear William,
I believe these brackets were part of a davit arrangement. I do not recall who made them.
I need information on the center board lanyard "plumbing" on my 1978 P35. Specifically, on the size and material type for the plumbing union and pipe that run under the cabin sole.
The boat nearly sank at the dock this past fall when the union broke in half, not in the threaded area, as one would expect, but through the hex body on the male half, see sketch. Also, any help on availability (if it’s not standard, readily available material) would be appreciated.
— David R. Thornton, Middletown, RI
Dear David,
All the fillings with the exception of the sheave boxes were standard marine plumbing items. An additional thought on this—as a stan-dard practice, you should check out these fittings and the cable itself each year before launching.
I own a 1975 P10M, Universal Atomic 4 with 7/8" shaft diameter. I would like your suggestion on Stuffing box repair, specifically which size stuffing to use. On removal, the old stuffing resembled 3/ 16", although there was a piece that looked closer to 1/4". I had purchased both sizes, and decided upon the 3/16". I put four circles of it into the nut (where the old packing was) and replaced it onto the fixed threaded rod part attached to the hull by a length of rubber tubing. There seemed to be enough room for the 1/4" to fit as well, but since the 3/16" fit ok, I decided not to try changing it to larger until one of the following occur. Please circle the most appropriate number:
1. You think that I should leave the 3/16" in place, and it becomes unadjustable in five years of normal operation (my first choice).
2. You tell me that 1/4" is the right size.
3. You tell me that you haven’t the slightest idea what the correct size is, but you suppose that using the largest size that fits is the way to go.
4. Launch day, and an uncontrollable leak from the box (least favorite choice).
I imagine that you are inundated with these requests, that’s why I made this like a check list with a SASE for your convenience.
— Barrie Soloway
Dear Barrie,
I suggest you choose no. 5 and consult with your yard mechanic. This is just too important to leave to the mail. Changes may have been made to your equipment over the years that would alter the specific stuffing you should use. Once having had the yard do it and watching how it is done and the size stuffing they decide to use, you are prepared to undertake the task the next time.
Several months ago you were kind enough to send me the names of the other two Rhodes 41 owners. This information was important enough to use so that I put it away in a place so secure that it could not be lost. Problem is I cannot remember where that secure place is. If you could resupply me with the names of these two skippers, one in Louisiana and one in California, I would very much appreciate it.
On second thought, let me pose the question that I want to ask the other Rhodes 41 owners. Perhaps there are tables like mine in other boats.
In an accident that happened before I became the owner of my boat, the dining table was knocked loose. Cylin-der A fits over Cylinder B and one or two bolts fitted in two threaded holes and through long slot in Cylinder A keep table from turning. On my boat, the top hole was gnarled and the bottom hole had the remains of a sheared off bolt in it. I have extracted that sheared off bolt and screwed a new bolt in. The diameter of the bolt that fits in the hole is much less than the width of the slot. Therefore, the table has some play in a turning motion. The table is raised and lowered by inserting a racket wrench extension bar into the socket in the upper cylinder and turning it up or down in the threaded nut welded into the top of cylinder B. However with cylinder (A) in the full up or full down position the table still has some play in the forward aft, port, starboard or any other direction.
My thought is that I could fit a bolt with a shoulder that matched the width of the slot and the threads fit the hole. Then I wonder, why two holes? Did it have two bolts?
Does anyone know how this was originally set up? Any help would be appreciated.
—Lars J. Steib, Houston, TX.
Dear Lars,
Sorry this one was even before my time. I can only suggest that a machinist look at it for I have never seen this type of table arrange-ment. Hopefully another R41 owner and member of NPYOA might see this and help you out.
My wife and I purchased a 1985 Pearson 34 in 1991. We have had nothing but great times and care-free sailing experiences! Last fall, I noticed that the bilge pump (rule 500) was engaged via the floater switch but the pump was not removing the bilge water. I assumed a blockage in the through-hull fitting or in the exhaust hose. I disconnected the hose and noted that the pump was pushing out the water at a furious pace. I blew into the hose and no impedance was felt. I then reconnected the hose and the bilge subsequently drained. This has happened several times and has worried me. There is a loop of exhaust hose with a vent (I am told but I cannot visualize— hidden behind the bulkhead) to prevent back siphon of the outside water and also a one-way valve (checked and OK) in the line to prevent shower water from entering the bilge (common exit lines shared by the bilge and shower). It appears that some type of vacuum lock occurs preventing the water from exiting. Can this happen? Where should I check next to prevent this "mystery blockage" from happening again? We don’t always get to the boat every week and on a mooring this bilge situation could prove to be a disaster! Help!
—Kevin & Anne Grace, W. Brookfield, MA
Dear Kevin & Anne,
You are certainly right to be concerned about this problem. I do not think I can fully respond because of how the problem is described. If someone has connected the suction side of the bilge pump to the shower drain and if it is also connected to the bilge suction then it is indeed becoming air bound via the shower drain. You should have a dedicated bilge pump, and a dedicated shower pump with a manual on-off switch.
There was mention in The Current of a Pearson 365 cutter. I have a P365 81, sloop. My question is, what needs to be done to make this work and how does this effect performance? While I am a cruiser, I want the best performance with the least amount of work.
—Norman Robertson, Kemah, TX
Dear Norman,
We had a few requests for a sloop rig, leaving the mast in the same position. This resulted in a very narrow fore-triangle that did not lend itself for the installation of a fore-stay. The cutter was designed as a cutter from the start. Since you are only interested in cruising and looking for less work, I suggest you consider a club jib. Check this idea out with your local sailmaker.
I sent you a fax last October 7, 1996. Is there any way to know if it reached destination?
I have a few more questions about my Pearson 390, 1972, Hull #28. How to locate the centerboard Pivot, Pin. What is the displacement of such a boat. I am also looking for the halfround rubber gasket being used on all deck hatches. Is it possible to get the previous issues of the newsletter? The first one I received was Vol. 2 No. 3- 95. I’ll be happy to pay for them.
—Luc Fontaine, FL
Dear Luc
If we did not get back to you on your fax we did not receive it. Please send it again or call us. We are running short of back issues but have them on disk. We are attempting to compile and publish them as a single volume.
The centerboard pin is in the keel and the best way to locate it is to haul the boat and use a flash light to look up the CB trunk. As with other models the CB pin is in a pocket on each side of the trunk. The displacement is about 21000 lbs. We used a form of weather stripping years ago. The boat suppliers carry various types or try Home Depot.
In September, I sold my 10M and bought a 424 sloop which I named "Mother Ocean." My immediate problem: the boat has what I understand was an optional bow extension, two small anchors and no windlass. I am in the process of buying two larger anchors (a 45# danforth and a 50# Delta), all-chain rode and a windlass. An engineer friend (admittedly a dangerous breed) has told me that I should remove the bow extension because there is no way it could withstand the stress of heavy ground tackle in bad weather. I’m not looking to withstand a hurricane at anchor but I do plan to do the Bahama islands in the winter and I understand it’s not that rare to experience 40 knots and, if you are unlucky, to be in an anchorage that turns pretty choppy. Another friend and advisor tells me to keep the bow extension in place and if I have concern in a particular situation then I should lead the chain off the roller onto chocks slightly aft of the extension to ride out the weather and return the chain to the roller once it’s time to haul anchor and leave. The second option sounds reasonable unless the need to leave arises during the heavy weather.
What advice can you give me? How much stress was that bow extension designed to take? Any information will be helpful.
Oh yes, another request: is it possible to buy a xerox copy of the 424 owner’s manual? If not, can you provide one piece of information that’s critical: "Mother Ocean" has a Hood stoway mast. What is the height of this mast above the water?
Thanks for your help! Is it true that Pearson is going back into production?
— Del Budzinski, Oakland Park, FL
Dear Del,
The Pearson name has been bought and the folks at Cal-Pearson have committed to producing some of the Pearson Yachts. More to come later from Bill L. on that subject. I do not recall designing the anchor rollers etc., maybe we did! If so, it was intended as a device to stow the anchors under moderate conditions, not under storm conditions. When sailing off shore, the anchors should be removed and stowed. They were never intended to be used at anchor especially under severe conditions. You should lead them, with chaffing, gear directly through a chock if you fear heavy winds or weather.
We own a Pearson 365 ketch 1976/hull #89. I believe it has the original Westerbeke 40 engine, Paragon SOAD gearbox and V-drive. The propeller is a 3 blade 17-inch, but I am not sure of the pitch. This arrangement makes for a craft that is difficult to bring to a stop while docking except with a great deal of care, favorable wind and tide. We would appreciate any opinions/experience on how to improve this situation. We have debated acquiring a MaxProp (would 2 or 3 blade be best)? Or possibly changing the gearbox (a Velvet drive has been brought to our attention). Any comments or ideas would be welcome.
—Andy & Beryl Bainbridge
Dear Andy & Beryl,
I had a 365 for a year, docked and undocked it many times under all kinds of conditions. The boat had more than ample power and its fixed prop was never a problem to handle. However, as with many reverse gears, the astern rotation is less than for forward. This means you must apply more power when backing down. Always approach at low speed.
I have a 1977 Pearson 26 One Design. I love the boat, and the hull is excellent, but am concerned about erosion/corrosion of the keel bolts and their retaining nuts. The nuts, especially the end ones with the chain plate ground, are badly rusted away. The local yard tells me that the "fix" is to set new bolts, drill sideways through the cast iron keel, and put in retaining nuts.
They say the cast iron keels typically have voids that make drilling and tapping impractical. This sounds really expensive. I’ve wondered about chiseling away the nuts, retapping the bolts, and installing stainless nuts. I also worry about the keel having worked and salt water corrosion of the bolts having occurred between the keel stub and the keel itself. The boat is in Houston where the water is warm for most of the year. I welcome your thoughts and thanks for designing a great fun boat.
—Musgrove39@aol.com
Dear "Musgrove39,"
The keel bolts were not threaded into the keel flange, instead they passed through and were secured with washers and nuts inside the hull. At this point in time, it might be best to drop the keel by removing all of the bolts and fit new ones.
I am interested in moving up from my O’day Mariner to a sloop-rigged 38-45 footer, less than 5' of draft (keel centerboard preferred), of classic lines, and in my price range (less than $50k). The boat I can’t seem to beat is the Pearson 39 1972 76. The vessel has everything I’m looking for, with the possible exception of a tri-cabin layout.
A broker mentioned I should also look out for a Pearson 43 (c. 1970 vintage) and a Pearson Invicta. A 1981 Pearson 424 just came out in Soundings (almost) in my price range. Could you please tell me if these or any other Pearson models are out there that fit my criteria, and where can I find out more about the above mentioned models? Do you have any personal thoughts on these boats or where to look for one for sale, other than Soundings and the like? I look forward to your response and to the eventual purchase of a fine Pearson yacht.
—Steve Van Pelt
Dear Steve,
One thing all my years in this business has taught me is not to recommend a type of boat to a serious sailor. We are all so particular about what we like and want that it becomes a most personal decision. My best recommendation has always been to try to sail on as many of the type boats your are thinking of as possible and talk to owners, something you can now do through the NPYOA. Take your time, the right boat will come along and only you will know it when it happens.
We have a Pearson 424, Hull #219 with a Sarns Proplock to stop the propeller from turning when the engine is off. This was standard equipment on these boats. Mr. Sarns died and the business is shut down. We have an oil leak around the hydraulic cylinder that activates the locking system (it releases the brake pads when the engine is operating). The lock mechanism loosened up from vibration and one of the brake pads came off, causing the unit to twist and damage the cylinder and brake pads. We also need new brake pads.
We need to replace this unit or find a source for parts; or can we just put the transmission in reverse and stop the prop?
—Jim Roberts, Huron, OH
Dear Jim,
I did a lot of searching around for an answer for you on this one and got the best answer from Hal Suthpen from the 424 association. He felt that original parts are just not available and suggested taking the unit to any good automotive machine shop and having them make a new locking system for you. He felt it would be an ordinary job for a well equipped shop and might be a lot less expensive and time consuming than trying to locate another OEM.
I recently sold my Compac 16 and bought a tired but sound 1978 Pearson 23. I wanted something with a trailer but bigger than a Catalina 22, so the Pearson was my choice.
I had the boat out of the water while the Olympics were in town (ACOG took over my marina) so I cleaned it up and painted where needed. The boat did not come with a swing keel although it has all the hardware. I am looking for other owners who can help me locate a swing keel, or who can provide a detailed drawing so one can be made. Also, I am interested in the history of the 23 including how many were made, etc. Any information you can provide would be appreciated.
—Ray Willingham, Savannah, GA
Dear Ray,
It seems as though there were 75 Centerboard models and 20 keel models of the Pearson 23 made from 1977 through 1979. I trust you will get some response to your request.
I am in need of information regarding the amount of insulation on the ice box in my Pearson ’39, built in 1989. A refrigeration unit was installed, but is far from being satisfactory. If you have access to this data, I’d appreciate having it.
—Marvin B. Gordon, Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Dear Marvin,
Whatever amount of insulation used if the unit is not keeping things cold enough for you, something must be done. I found the same problem with my P35 and drilled a series of 1 1/2' holes in my ice box and poured West Systems two-part foam throughout the box. Be sure to block off areas around the box in the bilge to prevent leakage beyond the box itself. I used the commercially available spray cans of foam, about $6 each, to fill in around edges that the West System foam didn’t find. Since doing this I have had no problems keeping the frig cold and I am using considerably less power to do so. The whole job cost me about $40.00 and two hours.
My wife Diana and I are Pearson owners and cruisers. We did a three year and about 15000 mile trip to south America and all points in-between in our Pearson 31.
Since returning home, we have sold our Pearson 31 and located a Pearson 386 which was owned by Bill Mason of Darien, Connecticut. It is now in Clear Lake, Texas, "Galveston Bay" undergoing a retrofit for a circumnavigation. Thus our interest in the Pearson Club.
Look forward to hearing from you and if you have any further interest in our project just let me know. Do you have an e-mail address?
—Harold Thompson, Austin, TX
Dear Harold,
Please, please send us an article on your cruise. Many Pearson owners would love to hear about it. We would also want you to keep us up-to-date on your plans for the P386 trip. Yes, we do have an e-mail address — pearsoncurrent@pipeline.com. Look forward to hearing from you.
I am a member of the NPYOA and enjoy very much receiving your newsletters and information. I am writing in hopes you can correct a major deficit in my Pearson’s equipment—the owner’s manual. I own a 1973 Pearson 30, hull No. PEA 484450973. My vendor unfortunately was unable to supply the original manual (or manuals) and, if one is available anywhere, I’d be glad to defray the costs of acquisition. (I have the manual for the Atomic 4—still in there—but manuals concerning any other systems as well as the boat as a whole would be much appreciated.)
Thanks very much and I look forward to hearing from you.
—Laurence B. Sutter, New York, NY
Dear Laurence,
Call Rudy Nickerson at D&R enterprises, 508-644-3001, he has the plans for most Pearson models. Please let me know how you make out with this suggestion. You might also find that even with the manual, so much has most likely been done to your boat over the years that much of the technical information in the manual will be obsolete.
I am the second owner of a 1986 Pearson 34. Last year, at the Annapolis Boat Show, I met someone who also owned a Pearson 34. His boat was newer than mine, and in the course of discussion, I learned that the water from his icebox was pumped into the galley sink and overboard through the sink drain. My icebox drains into the bilge. I have been fighting grime and odor for the past two summers and I would like to change this arrangement. The hose from my icebox leads into the bilge close to the galley. I would like to put an elbow at the end of the hose; drill a hole from the bilge below the cabin sole into the cabinet under the galley sink or into the compartment below the port settee. I plan to bring a hose to a small hand pump that I would mount on the counter between the trash bin (outboard) and the galley sink.
My question to you is, do I have enough thickness below the floorboards in that area to safely drill a hole from the upper area of the bilge to cabinet below the sink?
—Melvin Portnoy, D.M.D., Oakdale, NY
Dear Melvin,
I am reluctant to respond to this question without more specific information as to exactly where you wish to drill the hole. The last thing you want to do is violate a structural part of your boat to eliminate an odor. Another idea you might try before the one you are thinking about is to have the icebox drain into a plastic bottle of some type that will fit into the area the box currently drains. You would have to remember to empty the bottle every so often but I am sure that it will eliminate the odor. I did this for "Satori" and it has worked perfectly, cost $0.
I recently purchased a Pearson 38, hull #11, manufactured in 1990. Can you tell me how many boats were made using this model, and any problems that might be associated with this model?
Any information you might have is appreciated.
—Richard M. Young, New Haven, IN
Dear Richard,
There were 10 P38’s built. We have not received any word of specific problems associated with this model but if we do they will be published in future issues of TPC. Keep in touch.
The boom on my Pearson 323 is quite low which makes it difficult to mount a dodger effectively. I guess the only answer is to raise the boom and have the main modified or do you think I should look further into mounting a dodger as is?
Is there any way I could get a hatch cover which should be added if I were to go ahead with a dodger?
—Chuck Daniels, Pittsford, NY
Dear Chuck,
Altering your rig may not be what you want to do. Many canvas shops are now making fixed dodgers, assuming you are not looking for a permanent glassed or wood structure added to your boat. Check out some of the new materials being used for windows as well. I have commented elsewhere on the availability of past issues. As other members send in modifications to their boats we publish them, so please consider TPC a good source for that information. Occasionally, the commercial boating magazines pick up interesting refits for Pearson’s as well. I believe "Sail Magazine" has just published a P35 refit. About the hatch covers, D&R has some molds and might have yours. Call them if you decide to go that route .
We are currently looking at a Pearson 323, as an upgrade from our MacGregor 26. We like the layout and the water and fuel capacity. Do not know much about sailing characteristics. PHRF of 174 seems fairly good (not a racer). How about tenderness? Handling under power? Balancing sail trim? Any information would be helpful.
—Dick Bentzel
Dear Dick,
It is always hard to answer questions like this because each of us has our own interpretations of these characteristics in a boat. Suffice it to say that from 1974 through 1983, 385 P323’s were built and most of them are still out there doing what they do best.
Attached is a pencil drafting of the tiller cap for a Pearson 30. This part was obtained from D&R Enterprises in Assonet, Mass. Telephone 1-508-644-3001. Although the drawing is admittedly crude, it should help if someone needs this part manufactured.
—Stan Perry, Jacksonville, FL
Dear Stan,
Thank you for the P30 drawings. We are publishing them for just the reason you state. We are frequently asked for details on various parts and given the popularity of the P30, I am sure they will be of value to other owners.
The letter from J. Cianci in Current, Vol.3 No.1 commented on overfull water tanks leaking to the shallow bilge and sloshing up onto the floor pan. I fixed the problem on our 87' P31-III, "Volare," by reseating the inspection ports in each water tank. The ports are sealed with an "O" ring. The "O" ring seats against the top of the port. My ports were warped. I used a sanding block and fine grit paper to level the material on the top of the port. Finally, some petroleum jelly on the seal allowed enough torque to squeeze the seal. Note that even with leakproof tank, overfilling will result in water leaking through the vent line which exits into the bilge, not overboard. Simply stop filling when the sound from the fill pipe changes. An accumulation of 2 inches of water or more in the flat bilge will slosh up onto the floor pan when heeled. The water then works its way under the teak inlaid panels on the floor. This water sits a long time and squishes out when the panel is stepped on. I have drilled a few ¼" holes near the center line under the floor panels to let this water drain back to the bilge.
A while back another Pearson owner wrote asking for replacement bulbs for the mini spotlights in his cabin. I found them in an RV store. Conversion vans and motorhomes use the same fixture.
We sail our Pearson on Lake Superior and enjoy hearing of the experiences of other Pearson owners.
— Bill & Claudette Langer, Eden Prairie, MN
Dear Bill & Claudette,
I passed your comments on to Bill Shaw and he agreed with your assessment. Thank you for taking the time to write to us, I am sure our P31 members will appreciate your effort.
Congratulations on the new web page and e-mail resource. It’s nice to see my suggestions of last year come to fruition and I know others supported the notion. It is a class internet resource already with more to come. Keep up the excellent work with the Current— each issue is better and they started out great. Bill Shaw’s responses add an enormous amount of insight into the Pearson genre and are of exceptional value. Bill L’s article in the latest issue was poignant; maybe some members will be encouraged to submit similar pieces. Best regards.
—Kim A. Wilson, East Lansing, MI
Dear Kim,
Thanks for the kind remarks. We are trying to make this newsletter as helpful as possible to our members. We are beginning to get more material from members and that is a most welcome event. Our Web page, however, is getting old and in need of a refit.
Bill, what experiences have you or our members had with the Atomic 4 retro-fit of the indigo-electronic ignition system, and the oil filter setup. Also I’d like to hear more about "drop-in" diesel engines. Still in the water and sailing the P10M what a great boat and handles the Long Island Sound winds really well. Looking forward to our next chat on the site. Thanks.
— Bob Studen
Dear Bob,
I have not heard anything pro or con. However, your note did stimulate me to make our lead article an opportunity for the folks at Indigo a chance to let us know what they have for our Atomic 4 members. I look forward to hearing from members who’ve had experience with both questions.
We have just purchased a 1979 Pearson 424 and are very interested in becoming a member of the National Association. We understand Pearson is no longer manufacturing the yachts, therefore, any information you have will be even more valuable.
We are particularly interested in information regarding the ports (the ones which open) on this model. Ours leak a bit and we need to replace the gaskets but have no idea where to go for replacement gaskets.
We are currently sailing from the B.V.I, down the island chain, through the Panama Canal and over to Hawaii.
We look forward to reading the quarterly newsletter and networking with other Pearson owners.
—Janice Thorpe, Colorado Springs, CO
Dear Janice,
Try D&R, however you might be forced to use a different model. It is not so hard to cut out the opening to accommodate a new one. I know that we all prefer to keep the original look on our boats, however, we have to think more of what a particular piece of equipment is supposed to do than how much it conforms to original specs. Try one of the liquid gasket products or some members have told us that old inner tubes cut to size have worked well.
Thank you for all of your efforts. I’m glad to hear from other Pearson yacht owners. We have owned "Amy Margarete" since 1989. She has been a good sailing boat. Went to Bermuda two times, 1983 and 1995 without any problem.
The deck aft of the mast needed more support. We placed some stringers under it. The deck on the starboard side of the V Berth has crazing—no leakage. The engine is fine. We had to put a heavier pin on the centerboard. The one the boat came with broke because of trying to rest on the centerboard at the dock. I forgot to raise it.
We put a removable baby stay for a storm jib. That’s fine. We removed the sink in the Vee berth. We never used it. We removed the shower in the head and put the retractable hose in the small sink. It turned on by itself; a few times the head got filled with hot water. We have been putting life jackets and foul weather gear in the shower room. We didn’t even use it as a shower. It’s a very nice boat.
Thank you.
—John E. Weise, Ridgewood, NJ
I am the owner of a Pearson 39 Hull #75. I have a Pearson Manual, Parts List, Sail Plan and Engine Manual. Should anyone need a copy of a particular part, or if there is a general need, I would be willing to make copies available. I have kept the Manuals on board, so they are a bit moldy and damp. Had I known they were in such demand, I would have taken better care of them. Anyway, I will remove them this winter and make copies. If this will help anyone, have them send me an e-mail, or write to me, or contact me the old-fashioned way—by phone.
— Henry Posner, Washington, DC