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The Pearson Current
VOL. 2, #1

1995


Index for this issue

PUBLISHER’S LOG
RE-BEDDING CABINTOP HANDRAILS
by Bill Pogson, NPYOA Member and Pearson 303 owner
BILL SHAW ANSWERS THE MAIL
MEMBER NOTES
POSITION REPORT
by Hal and Helen Sutphen, NPYOA members and Pearson 424 owners
NAUTICA
Sailing terms and expressions

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PUBLISHER’S LOG

Summer is upon us. I can tell by the type of requests and letters we are receiving that many of you are in the last stages of preparing your Pearson for the plans you have made for this season. Your NPYOA has had a fairly full spring as well. We have been responding to many member requests—some of which involve fairly heavy repair jobs on Pearsons that unfortunately suffered storm damage. We will be tracking this work and publishing it in future issues of TPC. Our events scheduled for SAIL-EXPO in Atlantic City last February were very well attended. More than fifty Pearsons were represented at our owners’ meeting and about fifteen members attended our cruisers’ dinner. A Special thanks to Everett Pearson who took time out from his many official obligations at the show to spend considerable time with us at dinner.

By the time this issue hits your deck, we will have held the first of what I hope will be many Pearson Owners Rendezvous. This year’s event was scheduled for Newport since it was in these sailing waters that the Pearson legend got its start. Our next issue will have a full report on the event. We are close to getting the list of like Pearsons completed and I hope to have it in your hands before the end of the summer. We appreciate your patience—these things always seem to take longer than anticipated. It takes a considerable amount of time for me to keep all aspects of our association up to speed and still have some left over to fulfill my other obligations and to sail Satori.

In this issue, Bill Pogson has written what we feel is an extremely informative piece dealing with the removal and replacment of handrails. Leaking handrails represents a common problem for many of us. I am sure you will pick up some excellent tips from Bill’s article. NPYOA member Hal Sutphen (P-424) has given us an update on his winter with the "Caribbean 1500" Cruising Rally. My immediate reaction to the article was envy. Given the many requests we get about the offshore capabilities of our Pearsons, I am sure that many of us wish we could be down there on Sea Duty with Hal and Helen.

I feel obligated to comment on the tortuous track taken at the most recent "America’s Cup" show. It seems however, that more was written about the maneuverings off the water than about what transpired on the race course itself. Evident in much of the discussion is the regret felt by many over the loss of a focus which was traditionally the matching of sailing skills and getting the best possible boat in the water. The rapidly escalating commercialization and politics involved in this world class event has managed to seriously diminish my interest. However, I would strongly encourage you to follow the New York Yacht Club’s new creation, "The International Cup." The NYYC has set a new standard of match racing for this event that should prove to be most exciting to watch and possibly even to participate in.

A note on upcoming topics for the Current: I have asked Bill Shaw to put together a brief article explaining how we can evaluate the stability factors of our specific Pearsons. He is gathering the key ratios used by Naval Architects to determine the safety factors we are comfortable with as they relate to your particular boat. Bill has also given me some information on the history of the Pearson Yacht Company which I will put together for the fall. Many of us would like to know more about how the company got started and grew to become a leader in the industry. I hope this will address the comments and questions many of you have sent to us.

Wishing you smooth & safe sailing,

Bill Lawrence

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RE-BEDDING CABINTOP HANDRAILS
by Bill Pogson, NPYOA Member and Pearson 303 owner

If you’ve ever tied halyards or deck cargo to your cabin roof handrails, you probably subjected them to more strain than they are designed for. On our boat, this caused the forward mounting screw on each to loosen and leak. Don’t delay in repairing this (as I did) because the leaking water will penetrate the balsa core deck.

Although the details of this procedure are appropriate for a Pearson 303, many of the techniques are very applicable to other types of vessels. It is also worth noting, if you have a balsa core deck or hull, that the repair of through-deck leaks is very important. End grain balsa is very good at resisting water migration between the deck surfaces. But what they don’t tell you is that water trapped between decks expands when it freezes and separates the balsa-deck bond. Water then seeps between these layers and migrates on and on. The problem worsens with each freeze-thaw cycle. The moral is: the early repair of through- deck leaks saves a lot of potential damage. The following represents my step by step procedure to remove a typical handrail, repair water seepage damage to the deck and the final replacement and refastening of the handrail.

Removal of handrails:

Note: This step and the next—removal of the saturated balsa-core—makes a terrific mess inside the cabin. Cover all surfaces with drop cloths, sheets or towels (not just in the immediate area but throughout the cabin) before beginning and have a strong vacuum handy to clean up.

1. Remove the teak bungs by first drilling a small hole in the center. Use progressively larger drills until only a thin ring remains. Remove this thin ring with a sharp tool (I used an ice pick).

2. Trace the footprint of the handrail on the deck with a pencil.

3. No two bolt lengths are the same. As you remove each one, label its location (ports’ board, forward, aft, etc.) with a piece of masking tape.

4. The inside handrail will simply fall away. You may find the outside handrail bedded with tenacious sealant. Don’t pull up on the outside handrail or you’ll split the teak (as I did)! Remove it by working a putty knife between the rail and deck. Mark each handrail to indicate port & starboard, fore & aft. (Now is a good time to sand & refinish if needed.)

Removal of saturated balsa core:

If the water penetration is not too severe, you can remove the wet balsa by bending a finish nail at a right angle, securing it in a power drill and allowing the spinning motion to gouge the balsa. You need to start with a short bend and use progressively longer bends until you hit dry balsa. (Hint: Removal of the balsa is easily accomplished if a second person holds a vacuum hose to the underside of the hole. This sucks the balsa out as it is gouged.)

If you can’t reach all the saturated balsa with the bent nail technique, you’ll have to consult other experts about this problem.

Hole preparation:

To prevent future water migration into the deck, you must seal the edges of each hole with epoxy. In addition, each hole has a unique angle which must be preserved as you replace the missing core material.

1. Enlarge the outside hole to about a quarter inch or five sixteenths.

2. Preserve the angle of the hole by inserting a rod or tube. It may sound funny, but I found birthday cake candles to be ideal: epoxy does not stick to wax and the material is easily drilled out. Some people use fiberglass tubes or drinking straws. The idea is to select one that is slightly larger than the bolt diameter. If you use a fiberglass tube, you may have to slightly enlarge the inside hole.

3. Seal the inside hole with duct tape and mask the outside deck area just inside the footprint you marked with the pencil. I also suggest you use drop cloths inside and outside as this process makes a real mess.

4. Seal each hole with epoxy. This job should require only small quantities of epoxy, so mixing calls for extra care to get the proportions exact. If the epoxy keeps seeping into the hole, it may indicate a separation of deck material from the core. Wait for the first batch to harden then try pouring in more epoxy later on.

5. Drill out the bolt if you used wax tubes.

Replacing the handrail:

1. Have a few spare nuts and washers available.

2. Coat the bottom of the exterior handrails with 3M 5200 sealer (the footprint of the handrail should still be masked with tape. Bear in mind that 5200 is a very strong bonding agent that is very difficult to remove should you wish to take the handrail off again.

3. Install the bolts through the handrail and have an assistant on the inside reinstall the interior handrails and affix nuts at the same time.

4. The 5200 sealer will ooze out the bottom. Clean up the excess and remove the masking tape (remember not to leave masking tape in place for more than one day—the tape tends to bond with the deck).

5. Replace the hole bungs using a water-proof glue on the exterior and just a little dab of Elmer’s on the interior. Trim off the bungs with a sharp chisel after the glue has set and sand flush. You’re done! Good job. Now that you’ve resealed the handrails and you know how to seal a through-deck hole so that water will never get inside the deck, go ahead and install some tie-down points for your halyards and deck cargo.

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BILL SHAW ANSWERS THE MAIL

I am the owner of a 1976 Pearson 28. The traveller is mounted on a 7/8" track in the cockpit immediately in front of the companionway. I am attempting to modify my system by adding purchase to the traveller. I would like to locate components that I can add to the existing system. Can you please provide me with the name of the manufacturer of the traveller car and the traveller car track? Can you tell me if the manufacturer is still in business and where they can be reached? If they are not, can you provide me with the name of any company that manufactures blocks or camcleats that can be added to this system? Thank you.
Joseph Purazzella Toms River, NJ

Dear Joseph, From time to time we would purchase different types of marine hardware. Sometimes the manufacturers discontinued an item or phased it out. Unless there is some identification on the traveller itself (it is usually on the car) we have no way of tracking it down (pun intended). I suspect it was a Schaefer. You can call D & R Enterprises in Massachusetts at 508-644-3001, ask for Rudy or Geoffrey. They have been very helpful to NPYOA members with putting together parts and systems such as the one you are working on.


I agree with the statements made by Lazaros Lazardidis, (TPC Vol 1 No 4), regarding the "well-documented difficulty the P35 has backing down." If the water depths permits, I have found that lowering the centerboard about half way allows me to actually steer backing down. Can Bill Shaw tell me why this is so? Am I putting my P35 Revelation in too much danger by doing this? Thank you.
Steven Schreer Albany, NY

Dear Steven, Most designs with full back keels and a propeller in an aperture have difficulty controlling direction when backing down. The slip stream from the prop is deflected by the aperture causing a side wash when what you want is a nice flow fore and aft.

To reduce this problem back down until you have movement astern then put gear in neutralwith boat moving astern use the rudder to control direction. As the motion slows put the engine in reverse again and repeat the process above.

Sometimes it becomes necessary to put the rudder over hard and give a short thrust ahead to move the stern in the desired direction.

Putting the board down part way adds area to the lateral plan making the boat easier to control.

I would be very cautious doing this. If the board hit a rock or some other object, the force could do serious damage to the board and trunk.


We have a 1984 Pearson 34 with a wobbly rudder. I am afraid that the pin inside is rotting away. Can anything be done to correct this problem?
Frank and Ann Callari Mahopac, NY

Dear Frank & Ann, We would need much more information and a visual inspection of the rudder and all its parts to give a full assessment of what needs to be done. Where does the rudder wobble? If you hold the quadrant from moving can you move the rudder blades? If you hold the blade can you move the quadrant? The best thing to do is to have someone qualified look at it.


I own a 1973 P-35. The centerboard pin does not show any signs of excessive play, however I have a very small amount of water seeping into the boat where the pin housing is glassed into both sides of the centerboard trunk. I can get to the pin from inside the boat and it appears to be encased in two 1" pipe nipples which protrude from both sides of the trunk. It is where these nipples protrude from the fiberglass that I can see water seeping in. How are these nipples fastened into the sides of the centerboard trunk and how do I repair them? The amount of water seeping in is very small, maybe I should leave it alone?

Question 2: What is the range of positive stability for my P35?
Richard E. Whiting Rocky Point, NY

Dear Richard, To the best of my recall the CB pin housing consisted of a pipe flange with a short nipple and a pipe cap on each side of the CB trunk. wpe4.jpg (8260 bytes)

The flange with the nipple was screwed together and then glassed to the side of the Centerboard trunk. After the centerboard and pin were in place the pipe cap was installed.

I suspect that after all these years the polyester resin glassing the flange to the trunk is breaking down. It may become necessary to re-glass the installation.

#2 - since the P35 does not have an IMS certificate we do not know the 35’s range of stability. Considering the number of 35’s sailing and the number of years of experience we have had with this design, I feel the boat has ample stability for her intended use.


I understand that Pearson bought the rights & acquired all sailboat parts and molds from Bayliner Marine Corp. sometime around the mid 80’s. Bayliner Corp. manufactured these boats using the US Yachts trade name. Enclosed is some information on a 30ft US Yachts which I currently own. I would appreciate any information you can supply regarding the following questions:

1. Did Pearson use these molds in manufacturing any sailboats & if so what years and models?

2. What happens to the spare parts & boat molds?
Roy Walters Corpus Christi, TX

Dear Roy, We did acquire the molds but eventually only built a few models. I have no recall as to the models or years built.


We are second season owners of a 1984 Pearson 36' sloop rigged sailboat. We are enjoying the boat very much but have accumulated the following questions which we hope you, or other owners can answer for us.

1. Why does the electrical panel AC ON indicator light flicker and then go out completely as additional electrical loads are added such as the hot water heater and electrical heater?

2. Why does the shower sump pump continually lose its prime? There is a brass item in the discharge side of the line which I assumed to be a check valve?

3. What are the specs for the packing material for the stuffing box?

4. How can I obtain matching gelcoat for the hull?

5. How can I obtain matching blue trim tape for the hull?

6. I feel the Hyde roller furling on the foresail works very hard. I tried to disassemble and lubricate it but was only partially successful. Many parts would not come apart as indicated. Who has successfully taken these apart? How?

7. Last season I mounted an Edson radar tower on the transom and discovered on the port side of the transform interior of the bottom of the boat a fiberglass box. I could not determine any functional purpose for this and it only exists on the port side?

8. What is an adequate size whisker pole for a 150% genoa?

9. I find the open shelves behind the settees do not adequately restrain books and magazines which will not fit upright or end-wise what solutions are recommended for fixing this? Thanks for your timely response.
Don & Liz Bunch Poughkeepsie, NY

Dear Don and Liz,

1. This could be due to loose connections or a bad ground both of which are potentially very dangerous. We strongly recommend that you have a qualified electrician check it out as soon as possible.

2. Make sure the pump strainer is clean. If there is a check valve it may be clogged. If the pump will not pick up prime, chances are that the impellars are worn out and need to be replaced.

3. Your packing may have been changed since leaving the factory. Many new products and systems have come on the market recently and we would have no way of knowing what was used on your boat. Unless you have done this job before, you might find it best to have it done for you. If you want to find out how it is done you might try to schedule the work so that you can observe it for emergency repairs in the future.

4. Contact Glidden, we used their gel coat. Bear in mind that UV penetration most likely has changed the color somewhat. Different dye lots also might make it very hard to achieve a perfect match. Matching the color is more critical than getting the same brandname gel coat. Many yards have professionals who can come fairly close.

5. E & B or other marine hardware stores carry these products. You might also try a good automotive outlet.

6. Contact the Hyde people. D & R enterprises cited above might also be able to help you out on this question.

7. I do not know what this could be. I do not think it would have been done at the factory. It could possibly be trimming ballast which was glassed in place by a previous owner.

8. I Suggest a telescoping pole that will be 2' to 2.5' longer than the J measurement when fully extended. Different poles have their own tension strengths and this would have to be determined by the specific manufacturer you choose.

9. The open shelves were never intended to restrain large books. We recommend you have a bookcase built or refit the space for your specific needs.

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MEMBER NOTES

Alan Silverman (616) 381-2090 seeks information on any refit ideas for the stairs into the cabin of his P33 that will increase access to the engine room.

Greg Gills (708-832-6229 nights, 708-682-2050 days), also has a P33 and would like any information from others. He would like to know how other yards have been supporting the keel.

Sal Mauro of 17 Caravan Dr., East Northport, N.Y. 11731, is responding to Tay Bosley’s search for information on his P22 (TPC Vol 1 No 1). Sal has hull #41 and the original brochure Tay is seeking.

John Saxe, 16 Elder Road, Islip, N.Y. 11751, has a Wanderer and would like to hear from other Wanderer owners.

CONGRATULATIONS! A Alex Nimick, who campaigns his P26 Celebrity in the Lake Champlain Racing Conference out of Malletts Bay, VT, wrote to tell us that Celebrity was named "Boat of the Year" for 1994. Of all boats in PHRF classes, Alex and crew won D Class for the fifth time. Congratulations to you and your crew.

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POSITION REPORT
by Hal and Helen Sutphen, NPYOA members and Pearson 424 owners

Late in October, along with 59 other boats, we left Hampton, Virginia aboard our Pearson 424 Sea Duty. We were part of the "Caribbean 1500" cruising rally bound for St. Thomas in the Virgin Islands. Our passage south was smooth and relatively uneventful. Crossing the Gulf Stream went well—several periods of light air, some brisk breezes and choppiness, but winds never exceeded 26 knots and the seas were never threatening.

We stayed close to St. Thomas until mid-December except for Thanksgiving week which we spent at Culebra, an island about mid-way between Puerto Rico and the US Virgin Islands. Anchored behind the protect-ing reef off Bahia de Almodovar, we had a wonderful Thanksgiving dinner with a group from past and present Caribbean 1500 rallies.

We left for Martinique in mid-December. The three-day passage was our first ex-tended trip with just the two of us onboard. With the wind southeast, we were close hauled all the way. Initially, we had very light air but it built steadily and most of the last 30 hours of our passage were spent beating into gusts above 25 knots. This brought a lot of water across the foredeck and led us to finally discovering why we sometimes had leakage in the forward cabin. It seems that the bulkhead separating that cabin from the anchor locker does not extend all the way up inside the coamings at the hull-deck joint. When the fore–deck anchor locker fills in heavy seas, the water could slosh over the top of the bulkhead and drain into the V-berth area! Two care- fully shaped pieces of acrylic sheet and lots of caulking compound appears to have fixed this.

We spent Christmas in the Fort de France area and after a brief stop at St. Pierre (the city destroyed in the 1902 Mount Pelee eruption), we sailed north to Dominica. At Roseau, we had our first opportunity to moor anchored offshore in deep water with a stern line to the shore. It was also our first encounter with the infamous "boat boys" who actually proved to be more helpful and less aggressive than many stories had led us to believe. Tying to shore proved effective once we bent together enough lines to stretch that far. All the knots held (unlike one of our neighbors whose stern line let go at 10:00 p.m., leading to a large cooperative effort to get him reattached.) A tour of the island with "Roy," a legend in the boat boy/ tour organizer/taxi coordinator profession, was fascinating. We ate grapefruit and bananas fresh from the tree, drove through miles and miles of banana, coconut and pineapple groves interspersed with occa-sional coffee, cacao, and mango trees. We traveled up a narrow road on the spine of a mountain ridge that dropped straight away for a thousand feet or so on both sides, and visited "natural wonders" like the Emerald Pool and Sulphur Springs (very over-rated tourist attractions). Because Dominica is a mountainous island that rises right out of the sea, there are only a few places where a shallow shoreline shelf permits comfortable anchorage by a boat whose anchor windlass is not operating.

Our next stop was a three-day visit to Isle des Saintes, a cluster of islands south of Guadeloupe. We stayed here over the New Year holiday, touring the mainland by motor scooter and enjoying the time spent ashore. Like the other French islands, going topless (and nude) is common on the beaches, so there was plenty of anatomical examination to fill the time. While in the Saintes, we also enjoyed our first ice cream in several months. It may also have been the most expensive we’d ever consumed—over $5 US for one small dip!

From the Saintes, we went on to Pointe a Pitre in Guadeloupe. We expected a mail delivery at the big new marina there, but the mail never made it (our message to the forwarding service had been garbled on their answering machine). Finding Pointe a Pitre dirty and unpleasant, we retreated to an anchorage behind a small island a few miles to the southeast. After spending one night there, we decided to lin-ger no longer than neces-sary in Guadeloupe. A nice day of sailing took us to Basse Terre for customs clear-ance, and up the west coast to anchor near Pigeon island, a national underwater park. The next morning we snorkeled for several hours in wonderfully clear water and saw lots of undersea life, much of it in spectacu-larly brilliant color. A final stop for a day or so was at Deshaies, a tiny, charming town at the northwest corner of the island. We took full advantage of our last opportunity to buy the delicious fresh-baked bread available only in the French islands, and then we were off to Antigua, a 40 mile jaunt across open water.

We found Antigua to be a delightful place (one we want to visit again). It was also good to be back on an English-speaking island. We spent several days at English Harbour, visiting Nelson’s Dockyard and finally catching up with our mail. Two days in beautiful, peaceful anchorages in the lee of Green island on 7Antigua’s southeast corner were an absolute pleasure. They were followed by a superb day of sailing as we rounded the south side of Antigua and slipped up the west coast to the new marina development at Jolly Harbour. Though the area is still somewhat of a wasteland, we observed a steady stream of real estate sales pitches being delivered. If these pitches are effective, it won’t be long before the condos will be occupied, barren spaces will sprout more condos, the golf course will flourish and developers, shopkeepers and tourists will wear happy faces. The best $1 entertain-ment we found was the bus ride to the capital city, St. John, where we strolled among tourists disgorged by a cruise ship and actually found some excellent shops.

Next was a two-day passage westward toward Puerto Rico. The Caribbean weather has been contrary this winter—the strong "Christmas Winds" that traditionally blow between northeast and southeast between mid-December and March never material-ized. Instead, there were light airs from strange directions. On this leg, we had light southwest to south winds and had to motor well over half the way. We checked back into the USA, cleared customs at Culebra, then sailed to Roosevelt Roads, Puerto Rico, where we moored Sea Duty at the Navy marina and headed home for a couple of weeks. The flight home was an experience in itself—a "Space Avail-able" flight in an Air Force C-130 cargo plane, luxuriously outfitted with canvas "pipe berth" seats and minimal head facilities. After only 5½ hours of droning propeller noise (even with ear plugs it was enough to make the skull vibrate), we were home in Norfolk and winter.

Our visit home has been a welcome change of pace to life afloat, but we’re also eager to be back in sunshine and bathing suits, snorkeling and sailing again.

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NAUTICA
SAILING TERMS AND EXPRESSIONS

Limey
The name used by Americans to describe anyone of British origin. Originally the word was "limejuicers" and was applied par-ticularly to British ships, then by extension to the sailors who served on them. In effect it was a compliment by attributing to the British the wisdom of regularly issuing lime juice to the crew to prevent scurvy. The advantages of such a remedy was known since Elizabe-than times, but it was not until 1795 when the lack of fresh food on long voyages caused so many deaths that the issue of lime juice was regularized. British ships are still required to carry lime juice.
— from Salty Dog Talk, The Nautical Origins of Everyday Expressions. Beavis and McCloskey, Adlard Coles Nautical, 1983.

Doubling the Angle
Bowditch teaches that the distance off a fixed object can be determined by first observing the relative angle off the bow. Holding course and speed, take another angle that is double that of the first. The distance you lie at that point will be equal to the distance you traveled between each bear-ing. If your first angle were 45°, the second would then be 90°, for this specific case the distance run between each angle would equal the distance off when the object is broad on the beam.
— from American Practical Navigator, Bowditch, 1984

Sea Lawyer
Seaman who is prone to argue, especially against authority.
— from International Marine Dictionary. New York, 1948

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