 |
The World According To |
 |
|
The World According To |
|
| Bill Shaw answers the mail The Pearson Current - Volume 6, #4 - 2000 I’m planning on installing an SSB radio in my P40 and was wondering if you had any suggestions regarding the ground plane. I plan to connect all through-hulls with the recommended copper foil, but wonder in particular about the following suggestion from Gordon West: "Your RF ground system (counterpoise) does not actually need to contact the seawater to be effective. Even though an encapsulated lead keel doesn’t actually touch the seawater, it makes a captive ground by being next to it if you run wide copper foil to it. I know, I know, trying to get a good RF ground (counterpoise) system is a bit difficult—especially if you can’t get at your keel bolt. If this is the case, then drill into the keel and pull up some lead. Any sailboat system that doesn’t use a poured keel is losing a tremendous amount of potential for obtaining a super signal. Only if your keel is made of lead shot, poured-in fiberglass would you not elect to use it. In any other case, where there is a large amount of surface area below the waterline, such as a lead keel, by all means use it in your RF ground plane counterpoise. It will save you many hours of trying to run more copper foil and screen below decks." If this can be done for the P40, where and how would it be best to access the lead ballast? Is the ballast "poured," or is it lead shot? I’m still deliberating about which unit to buy. I’m leaning toward ICOM, however, I think Gordon West’s advice is pretty sound. I can probably get a good counterpoise by just following the bonding system on the P40 (at least that is what some other P40 owners have advised). However, what I would really like to know is how, where or if one could tap into the ballast of the P40 and use it as part of the counterpoise? It looks to me as if this could be done by drilling and inserting a bolt in the floor on either side of the centerboard, but is this advisable? Many thanks. — Charles E. Bland Although I am a licensed Ham Operator, it has been several years since I have set up an antenna. One factor to always keep in mind is that the balance between the counterpoise, the system you are using and your antenna are critical to transmission. My recommendation would be to consult with the manufacturer of the unit you decide to buy and have them suggest how to best install it for maximum capacity. Even when Pearson was in production and a customer requested an SSB installation, we always had the manufacturer make the installation. This recommendation is also important because a faulty installation might cause your unit to transmit signals at unapproved frequencies and the FCC could fine you severely. Regarding your question of tapping into the ballast, we made the lead keels by pouring molten lead into cast steel containers that had the exact shape of the inside of the FRP keel. When cooled, it was lifted and lowered into the FRP pockets of the hull. The entire unit was then glassed in place. There are several cabin sole hatches allowing access to the top of the keel; but again, you should discuss this aspect of the installation with the dealer or manufacturer of the specific unit you purchase. What recommendations do you have for a diesel replacement of a Palmer in my P35, #168? — Terry Rosenbaum We always had good results with Yanmar. Please be advised, however, that a few NPYOA members have mentioned that Yanmar has tightened up on its warranty and this raises the level of caution for this engine. Several P35s have installed Weterbeke diesels successfully. I have a 1975 Pearson 419, #10. The interior cabin sole in this boat is a laminate of clear vinyl over teak veneer on a black backing of some kind. It appears to consist of 30" x 6" strips. Was this original to the boat? Do you know the manufacturer or supplier of this flooring? It has held up pretty well for the past 25 years, however, I now need some for repair and modifications. Thanks. — Lenny Barrett Pearson419@aol.com The material you are referring to was from the TV/radio cabinet industry and was called FurniFlex. We tested it in a high traffic area in our shop and liked its properties, especially its endurance. Another benefit was its flexibility, which made installation along contoured areas possible. I am sure FurniFlex is no longer made and can only recommend that you try to get as close a match as possible through other industry sources. I own a 1966 Countess 44 Ketch, "Bon-Ami," and love it. I have four questions I would like to ask you. 1) I would like to install a staysail. This would be a storm sail mounted between the forward mast and the genoa. I have had several riggers look at the boat. Each has told me that the foot should be mounted in a different spot on the deck. I have also received conflicting advice on the optimal size of the storm sail. Can you recommend the ideal location for the foot of the inner stay and what would be the ideal size to make a storm sail for this boat? 2) I am redoing the decks and need to remove all the hardware on deck and would like to cut down on some of the supports and standing rigging. Do you have any updated drawing or comments on re-rigging the Countess? 3) I love the teak rail that runs the full length of the boat on both sides. Very nice but not too practical. Lines chafe across it and constantly require repair or re-staining. I would like to replace the toe rail with a steel or aluminum deck reel with various cutout sections to help with tying off, etc. How difficult would this job be and what is the best way to proceed? 4) Since first buying the boat two years ago, there has been a loud rattle or knocking in the aft while under power. I have replaced the cutlass and driveshaft, checked the alignment of the engine and the propeller, but to no avail. The rattle still exists. Any recommendations? — Tom Hyde; Kenmore, WA We do not have the original drawings, so we are not able to provide specific data on your first and second questions. Without sail and deck plans, it is difficult to make recommendations. You should try a local sail maker who may have the measurements needed to answer some of your questions. If the sail maker you choose doesn’t have the measurements, he/she should come on board and get them directly from your boat. As a general suggestion, I do offer the following regarding the configuration of the inner stay:
I do not recommend cutting down on any structural support rigging. They were put there for a purpose and removing them would effect the structural integrity of your rig. Replacing the toe rail with another product could conceivably be done, but I suspect it would turn out to be a very expensive job. It might also end up not as securely attached to the hull as the original rail because it would have to be fabricated. My suggestion would be to go to almost any local marine store and buy sections of half round Stainless Steel tubing. Place them along any areas on the toe rail where there is chaffing. Regarding the rattle, the only way to locate it is to have someone actually go as close to the source of the noise as possible while under power and when it’s noticeable. Most likely, the solution will be a simple one.
I have been the happy owner of a Pearson 10M since 1990. I wasn’t around for the hauling of the boat last fall and when I went to the yard several weeks ago, I found about 4 inches of the entire trailing edge of the keel missing. If one looks at the keel from the stern, one sees a flat metallic surface from top to bottom. The yard is trying to figure out if only fiberglass is missing or whether some lead is missing also. Can you help? — Bruce Ginsberg bgnsbrg@mindspring.com Your keel is lead and glassed over. The flat section you see was actually a fairing that was attached to the keel after it was released from the mold. This accommodated the design which could not be extracted in one piece from the hull mold. We had a fabricated part assembled in-house that was attached to the keel with fiberglass along the 2" recess that was designed into the aft section of the molded keel. This section of the keel is not structural to the hull, but it needs to be repaired because it insures a smooth flow of water past the keel and to the rudder. I recommend that your yard use oak, cut to be fair to the keel section, which could then be left as is. You could glass over the oak, but this is optional. If you foam the section, you need to find a foam that is not affected by polyester resin. As a guide for you and your yard, at left are some rough sketches of the section and how it was molded. |
|||||||
