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The World According To |
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The World According To |
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We are the proud owners of a P422, #4. Her name is "Sogno d’Oro," meaning Golden Dream. We live aboard in Alameda, California at Marina Village with our Golden Retriever, Chaucer. So far, ours is the only 422 we’ve seen on the West Coast. We bought our boat in August 1999 and moved aboard July 2000. We have plans to cruise to the Channel Islands off of Santa Barbara for three months next summer. Then we’ll come home and prepare for the BIG LEAP for a more extended period of time. Currently (pun intended) we are having some electrolysis problems. Our zincs are being eaten away every 2-3 months and I’m noticing deterioration of our through-hulls. Any ideas about the diagnosis of our problems? — Karen Crowe It sounds like your zincs are only doing their job. You may be next to another boat that does not have a negative ground, which is literally turning your boat into a battery. I suggest you check out the boats around you and see if that is a possibility. The second thing you might look into is to see if there is a factory or other production facility that might be discharging into your waters. If this does not solve the problem for you, you will need to have an experienced electrician come on board, shut everything down and with the proper detection equipment, check to see if your boat has any current flowing. The electrician should be able to both identify the problem and its source. As a precaution, don’t swim around your boat until you find out if the water you are sitting in is, in fact, not the cause of the problem. I have a 1973 P35, #244. It’s in excellent shape except that the compression post seems to have dropped about three eighths of an inch. It’s not noticeable on deck, but the inside of the bulkhead or the aft wall of the head both show space on the side and is tight on top. Also, the sliding door to the head is very tight. My question is what’s the best way to repair this problem? The bottom of the post is in a "mound" of fiberglass, so until it is removed there is no way to know what it is resting on and how to build it up to the 3/8" needed and to reinforce it. Thanks for any help you can give me. — Chip Riddle If you are not experiencing sag on deck, and there is no evidence of corrosion or sogginess at the base of the compression post, it is most likely that you do not have a structural problem. Remove and shave the door a bit to allow it to slide properly and keep a close eye on the gaps in the bulkhead. She is probably just settling in and you have nothing to worry about. If the separations become larger or if the deck begins to cave at all, you will need to have a surveyor look at the boat to make sure that a problem isn’t developing. I’ve purchased a 1973 P30, #403. It was previously registered with PHRF as number 39458 and I’m trying to reuse that number and get rated for racing locally in PHRF-NW events. Apparently, our local rater is having difficulty establishing what the base rating is for this boat. Can you help me? I understand that there were 3 Pearson models produced that were referred to as Pearson 30s. The base ratings for my boat are from 147 to 214. I have currently been assigned a rating of 181 without a spinnaker. I am not competing very well at this point in time and any help is appreciated. — Ralph K.Coon We have had trouble with the PHRF rating in the past but it is not due to any issues with your particular boat. As has been often stated, the PHRF system was designed to give local raters more latitude during the rating process. Local sailing conditions can be incorporated. It sounds as though your particular rater has latched onto the rating of one of the other models Pearson made that were 30 feet in length. It might be the rating for the Flyer. The Coaster, Wanderer, and the Pearson 300 were all roughly 30 feet long. Only one model was referred to as a "Pearson 30." We suggest you contact U.S. Sailing and get your boat's rating directly from them. Show this rating to your local person and he or she may see that they are applying the values to the wrong boat. I have a question regarding the keel on the P37 that needs addressing before it falls off the boat. We are removing the keel and I need to know how the bolts are bedded in the lead. The hull of the boat is separating from the ribs and the bolts are suffering from electrolysis. — Lynn Stayner If your bolts have been exposed to seawater or air, it is possible that you are witnessing some corrosion. Your keel was cast from lead in an iron mold. The bolts were hung from the top of the keel in a jig designed to match the holes pre-cut in your hull for them to pass through once the keel had set. The bolts were bent in a "J" to fully encapsulate them and make them as permanently connected to the keel as possible. You will not be able to remove them so you will have to cut those that can not be unscrewed from the hull. You will need to drill new holes into the keel for replacement and into the hull to accommodate them. After considerable discussion on this topic with other manufacturers when we were in production, we decided to liberally coat the entire section of the bolts rising from the keel with 5200 prior to attaching the keel to the hull. This was done to minimize the possibility of corrosion. You will need to do the same. section of the bolts rising from the keel with 5200 prior to attaching the keel to the hull. This was done to minimize the possibility of corrosion. You will need to do the same. My 1986 P28 has the shoal draft iron keel. In the most recent Pearson Current (Volume 6, I also want to thank you for designing a great boat. I bought her new, and she has been sailing the Florida Keys for 14 years. The 3.5-foot draft is an incredible advantage, if not a necessity, in waters where harbors typically have 4 feet or less at low tide. The boat is fun to sail as only a small boat can be, but yet has a cabin that puts many 35-footers to shame. I expect to sail her for another 14 years. — Mike Zelman Please refer to our response to Lynn Stayner. Your keel was cast in the same way. You say you have an iron keel, but we only put an iron keel on the P26. All other external ballasted keels were cast in lead. I have a 37 Pearson and it has a 4KW generator that I thought was standard equipment on this model Pearson. It has a Ruggerini engine and a Mase generator. Who carries parts or does repair, Shipping may be a chore — weight 210 lbs? — George Rodemann, Jr. We built two 37s in the late 1980s. One was a racer/cruiser built to IOR rules. The other was very radical with a powerboat interior which did have a 4 kw. generator installed in the port sail locker. I don’t recall the specific model. We publish this in the hope that another member can help. |
Number 1), you mentioned that "J" shaped keel bolts were cast into lead keels. Was the same type of bolt used for cast iron keels as well? If not, how were they installed in the iron? Thank you for your answer.