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The World According To |
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The World According To |
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BILL SHAW ANSWERS THE MAIL I have traced a leak (I think) to the area where the tie-rod (a 3/8" SS rod from mast step to mast collar) passes through the collar. I removed the nut on top in order to rebed it. The washer below the nut appeared welded in place, so all tensioning has to be done at the mast step via the bottom nut and lock nut. I’m real hazy about the function of this rod in the first place—it appears to keep the coach roof from pulling farther than it should above the step. Maybe it provides for adjustable headroom? Anyhow, it seemed to have little or no tension. This is a 323; a friend’s 303 manual said adjustments are made at the factory and no further attention should be necessary. In this case, though, it is. Any thoughts? Thank you. — Allen Hitchcock hitchcock@acadia.net A member’s answer to Allen . . . I have a similar rod on our 10M. It’s tight when the rigging is tensioned and loose when the rig is loose. The bulkheads on the 10M are not tabbed to the deck. They just slot into the headliner. If the bulkheads were glassed to the deck, they just might not need the tension rod. — Guy Johnson GUY_JOHNSON@Non-HP-Andover- om3.om.hp.com In answer to both . . . Under load (i.e. sailing) the rig wants to squeeze the deck. Without a tie-rod, the cabin top would bulge upward. With the rig properly tensioned under sail, the rod should be firm. At rest, the rod should be slightly loose. Do not over tension or make it too loose. The tie rod is necessary and should not be removed. I would appreciate any feedback on correcting the black exhaust smoke buildup on transom. Engine runs well, smoke appears white at 1800 rpm, black at over 2000 rpm. Does not seem to be burning oil. — Dr. Lewis Smoler loosemolar@email.msn.com Usually, white smoke denotes too much air and black smoke means that there isn’t enough. Several question to Bill Shaw about my 419 and his response to a previous question. After reading Bill’s comment about overloading a design, I reconsidered the possible impact on my boat. Three years ago, we stripped the hull and applied Interlux 2000 as a precautionary measure. The hull was perfect. However, we observed a scribed waterline about 1½ inches below her current waterline. She has extensive equipment, but I cannot imagine that the current boat is so badly overloaded. Is there another answer? Recently, we removed a 25-year-old genset from the engine room (which tended to hog the stern) and observed an increase in hull speed under sail of a full knot (from 7.5 to 8.5 kts.). This defies the hull speed rule. (Max hull speed should be 7.8 kts. No?) Finally, will anyone with experience using a wind steering vane on a 422, 424, or 419 please contact me or NPYOA to share it? — Fmeyer@hamptons.com I do not believe in the "hull speed" rule as a hard and fast criterion, because many factors influence how fast a hull will travel. The prismatic coefficient has a major one. Removing gear that is not necessary or used is a good thing anytime performance is an objective. We have a 1985 Pearson 28 (hull #37), and were wondering if other owners have noted that this model uses Apollo ball valves as seacocks. Although it’s a subtle difference, seacocks have a flange at the base which distributes the load onto the hull. It helps to protect the through hull from shear. My boat does not seem to use them. Any ideas? Also, although it is fitted with a manual bilge pump (Guzzler 500), cockpit-mounted, no other bilge pump is installed. I’ve installed a Lovett 1200 just forward of the engine. In addition, I outfitted the shower sump pump with a float switch mounted near the muffler (a few inches above the bilge) to act as a secondary in the event of uncontrollable flooding. Was only the manual pump installed at the factory? — Richard richard.gunzel@citicorp.com The manual pump was all that was usually factory-installed. The drawing below shows how we installed thru hull fittings.
General inquiry about the Invicta model by Pearson. The version I’m interested in was designed by Tripp (I think). I find advertisements for Invictas with full cabin trunks, but the model I’m investigating is a flush deck "racing" version. What is the length? What is the current market value? What is the prevailing opinion of the model? I believe one of them was recently featured in several issues of Cruising World and identified as Mollyhawk. Humahuma51@aol.com There were two models of the Invicta. The original was designed by Bill Tripp and had a blister deck. This model was also the first fiberglass boat to win the Bermuda Race. Its overall length was 38' LOA. A newer model was produced later with a revised cabin trunk. This model revision was approved by Bill Tripp and was also 38' LOA.
I am writing because our 1970 Pearson 39 (hull #1) has a worn lower rudder support bracket (the rudder gudgeon that mounts on the bottom of the skeg). The rudder can be moved laterally about a half an inch at the gudgeon. I am assuming that the gudgeon can be removed while the rudder is temporarily supported by blocks and wedges and that a new bushing can be installed. Any tips? The gudgeon seems to be fastened with machine screws or lag bolts into the skeg from each side. Do these typically break off and have to be drilled out? What should I expect? I would appreciate advice from anyone who has done this job. Thanks and a tip of the hat for all of the work you have been doing for the Association. — Mike Messick, Mystic, CT Mmessick@ebmail.gdeb.com The gudgeon, to the best of my recollection, was either through-bolted or riveted in place with countersunk heads. To be sure, support the rudder while you grind off the paint and fairing compound on each side of the gudgeon. Then you will be able to see how to remove the fastenings. We just purchased a 1977 Pearson 30 (hull #942). We are equipped with an Edson pedestal steering system. What rudder degrees are maximum from center to full left and from center to full right? We are asking because it appears that we are not getting a full left or a full right rudder extension. Is this part of the design or is there something we should be looking to correct? — Frank Cappella RADIANCE91@aol.com The wheel and steering quadrant is stopped to prevent pulling the rudder around too far. After 37 degrees, the boat will stall. The tiller version can turn a 360, but I do not recommend doing it. On page 3 of Volume 5, Number 2 of The Current, there is a discussion regarding the factory-installed engines on early Pearsons. Mr. Shaw responded that the Atomic 4 was used exclusively on "all our yachts." I have a Pearson 30 (hull #25) which had a Palmer-Johnson 22-hp gasoline engine; with the original purchasing information showing it as a factory installation. Is my paperwork incorrect, or was Mr. Shaw speaking about only some specific years of production? This is just academic from my perspective, as I have replaced the engine with a 30- hp Perkins diesel. I found the comments interesting. Thanks. — Stan Perry, SPerry3201@aol.com Your papers are definitely in order. For a brief time Universal was on strike and we did, indeed, use the Palmer-Johnson 22. I am very interested in finding more information about the teak and stainless bow platform for the Pearson 35. I’m also interested in others’ experiences with the max prop configuration with the atomic 4 on this model Pearson. — John Kenerson Virginia Beach, VA Pearson did not, as a rule, make these platforms. When they were requested, we jobbed them out to Microweld Inc. in Riverside, RI. They fabricated the frames. Pearson did create the teak. You will need to check with the max prop folks; it is not likely that you have enough aperture space for this prop. I have a problem with my Pearson 37. It is a 1990 version with hull #27. I have a leak behind the port side vertical panel, in the main cabin above the shelf. Although a similar panel in the forward cabin is held on by screws, this one does not seem to be removable. Before I cut an access port through the panel I’d like to find out if there is some way to remove this panel. Thanks for your help. — Bob Taylor, robert.taylor5@sympatico.ca These panels are all attached by screws but depending on where they are located, they might be covered by either a ceiling or a liner. To remove the panel, you will have to hunt around to find where you think the fasteners would logically be. Remember that often where a leak shows itself below deck has little to do with where it originates. You might want to do some more investigation before you start removing liners, etc. |
