Rusty Holt

During the period prior to when diesel became practical for recreational boats, we used the Atomic 4 exclusively on all our yachts. Universal, which built the Atomic 4, did produce another gasoline engine for boats, but we didn’t use it.

When diesel was introduced for recreational boats, they produced a 2-cylinder diesel. I don’t recall what it was called, but I doubt if it was labeled the Atomic 2. I assume the engine you are referring to is gasoline powered.

I am trying to get some information on the original (circa 1973), P36 sloop with fin keel. I’ve heard that there is a design flaw that can cause the mast step to push through the hull. Is this so? Also, was it designed under IOR rule and if so, does it have a higher than normal center of gravity that I have read this rule seemed to encourage.

— Paul Kirshen

If the mast step were to be pushed through the hull, it would also have to go through the ballast keel—a very unlikely event. The P36 (’70s version) was designed as a cruiser/ racer in keeping with Pearson’s market. The IOR rule was just coming into favor and we took into account some of the rule’s factors to avoid unnecessary penalties to those customers who did more racing. As to stability, the P36 has always had a reputation of being a stiff boat that does well when it breezes up.

I believe I stumbled across a Pearson 28 accommodation plan in a used boat book collection that had an aft head adjacent to the companionway. Was this a Pearson/some-body “28” or a “somebody” Pearson 28? Any references to this model would be most appreciated.

— Jacqui MacConnell

There were two distinct model “28” Pearsons. One was designed in the early 70s during the energy crisis and the other around the mid 80s. The two models were very different. The later model did have an aft head as you saw.

I’m considering converting my P424 Ketch to a cutter, leaving the main mast where it is and increasing the boom length to 17 feet. This would put the center of effort 18% forward of the center of lateral resistance, as a percentage of the water line. Has anyone done this or do you see any potential problems?

— S. Wally

The 424 was designed as a ketch, but from time-to-time an owner requested a sloop rig which we accomplished by simply removing the mizzen. Because the mizzen operates in the backwash from the main, its effectiveness is seriously reduced. Thus, removing it has little effect on the balance and reduction in sail area. For practical purposes, we calculated the mizzen area at about 1/3 of the geometric.

Adding an inner stay foresail will require running backstays to support the mast and a strong deck-level attachment going down to the hull on centerline for the new stay.

To get the feel of the boat as a sloop, sail under various conditions without the mizzen.

I’m aware that there are many considerations necessary for a sensible propeller recommendation, but I am not retrofitting, etc. I am, however, asking for information about the diameter/pitch measurements of the fixed, two-blade props used direct from the factory on the P31. Mine is a 1991. It is my understanding that the Yanmar 2GM20 was standard on all. I am experiencing vibrations above 2500 rpm. The alignment was reviewed by Brewer’s at Essex last summer. The motor mounts seem intact. The shaft seems true, but I will check this next. It has been suggested that the current prop is too large (16x11), and that the tips are too close to the hull causing cavitation that translates into vibration. I would appreciate your thoughts and figures concerning this.

— Fred Sprigman

From old data I was able to locate, it appears that your boat was installed with a 15" D x 11" P, 2-blade style E prop with the Yanmar 15hp with a 2:1 reduction gear. The most common cause for vibrations is an unbalanced prop and/or bent shaft. If the shaft bearing in the strut is severely worn, this could cause it to vibrate. You will also find that at certain RPMs, it is not unusual to encounter vibration. Is this vibration something that has just shown up or have you had it all along?

I have just purchased a P26, hull #404 and have a question regarding the tiller attachment point which has been broken off the rudder post, apparently from excess downward force on the tiller. Is there a history of this problem and what is the fix?

I noticed two other P26s in the marina, both on the same cradle design. Are the drawings for this cradle available?

— Montaque Miller

I believe the part you are referring to was an aluminum casting and could be bent or destroyed for a host of possible reasons, the least of which would be excessive downward pressure. If the part is still intact, a local machine shop might be able to make a new one using the old one as a model. If that solution is not available to you, contact D&R Enterprises (508-644-3001).

The drawings for the cradle are not available, but your yard could make up some from those you cite. If you do have drawings made, please share them with the Association so we can make them available to other P26 owners.

I have a small yacht maintenance business in Gulfport, MS and have the privilege of taking care of three P424s. I believe all three owners are members of your Association. One of the owners wants us to beef up the v-berth to prevent oil canning. I’ve read several articles in The Current on this problem, but I am not sure if I should lay some thicker glass on the inside of the hull or seek another solution. I know the shelves and v-berth need reinforcing where they come in contact with the hull. It seems to me that the hull is very thin under the shelf down to the v-berth. Any ideas that you might have would be most helpful.

— Brian Welch

I would recommend the following between the underside of the shelf and the top of the V-berth:

1. Sand the inside of the hull to remove any wax, glue, etc.

2. Apply one layer of 1.5 oz. mat in this area. Catalyze the resin for a slow cure to keep it cool to prevent print through.

3. Before the mat cures, wet the panel of 3/8" thick balsa with resin that will go against the hull and apply pressure to the balsa for a good bond. Note that you should taper all 4 edges of the balsa over a width of 2".)

4. After this lay up has cured, apply one layer of 1.5 oz. mat and over this one layer of 1.8 oz. woven roving. This should stiffen the area considerably.

I just found out that the P23 Cat that I bought has a corded hull. Can you tell me about the core materials and if any problems have been reported by this construction? I am naturally concerned about delamination and moisture damage, although I have not seen any as of yet. Thank you.

— Ken Lutz

The only boats we built that were entirely corded were the 530 and the P40. Balsa core was used on all our decks. As is the case for many production boats, balsa core was sometimes used in small areas of the hull on some models.

Concerning the problem of delamination, the only time we’ve seen this occur is when holes were drilled into the core and then not properly sealed. End grain balsa was used because it has both strength and lightness. The end grain properties virtually eliminate the possibility of wicking along the surface.