Bill Shaw Answers The Mail - The Pearson Current - Volume 3, #4

BILL SHAW ANSWERS THE MAIL
The Pearson Current - Volume 3, #4 - 1996

This year when I hauled my P35, hull #82 and dried out the bilge I noticed that water was seeping from the bottom of the encapsulated ballast on the starboard side where it rises vertically out of the bilge. This occurred for over two weeks despite having a cover on the boat. I assume that this is not an uncommon occurrence caused by bilge water seeping in by the same source. There is no wetness anywhere on the exterior of the hull. As I see it I have a few choices:

1.) Do nothing and let it drain out at the end of each season because the lead will not corrode;

2.) Help it escape by drilling a hole into the bottom of the encapsulated ballast;

3.) In the spring, when everything is dry, clean and rough up the area and cover the joint with 3M 5200 sealant;

4.) Same as 3 except use fiberglass & epoxy.

Bearing in mind that standing water will freeze over the winter, my inclination would be to let the water in and out as it probably has for years past (this is my second year of ownership and last year I did not dry out the bilge, I just mopped up most of the water and added anti-freeze). If I seal the ballast at the bottom of the bilge there is always the possibility that water is coming in elsewhere and if I trap it, it will freeze and expand over the winter and possibly crack the bottom of the hull where it joins the centerboard trunk.

Have any other owners experienced this? If they have could you send me the response? Contact me at (905) 940-4747 days, 416-691- 4216 evenings. Bill Nichols, Ontario, Canada

Dear Bill,
I would go for option 2, you do not know where the water is coming from and you are right that sealing it off might cause more problems than it will solve. Do not worry so much about water freezing in your bilge. As long as there is room for it to expand, as water does when frozen, no damage should occur. You might also check your fresh water tanks as the source of the water you are noticing.

I have a 1980 Pearson 365 (hull 315) which I want to take cruising this fall. I plan on putting a roller furler on the forestay and add an inner forestay for a staysail/storm jib. Currently it has a club boom about 5' aft of the forestay—to which is attached the clew of the genoa. I want to retain this club-boom to keep the new staysail self-tending, in addition to the roller-furled genoa. Pearson built several cutters from this hull and I wonder if Bill Shaw would recommend spotting the new inner forestay just on top of the forward bulkhead— to which it would be fastened? Also regarding running backstays— where on the mast should they be attached? Opposite where the new inner forestay is attached? Where would he fasten the running backstays aft?

Please also provide sources/suppliers names, as someone may already have the chainplates available to fasten the inner forestay to the bulkhead and also I would like to replace rubber grommets around port holes and hatches. Jim Larsen

Dear Jim,
As I have commented before on this subject, you should not undertake a change such as this in your rig without consulting your sailmaker. One additional comment—do not attempt to tie in the forestay to the forepeak bulkhead. You must use a suitable tie rod going down to the hull on the centerline. At that point it should tie in vertically to the keel. Look for a qualified local rigger to look at your mast and boat. (S)he will be able to better advise you.

How does tonnage of gross 24, net 22 and length 42.3, breadth 13.0, and depth 9.0 sound for the figures on my certificate of documentation from the Coast Guard on my Pearson 422?

Any ideas how I can track down and contact other Pearson 422 owners? I just had a lengthened boom fabricated to allow vertical mainsheet off the traveller (and away from my head and shoulders). Also set of 6:1 Harken mainsheet blocks so I can adjust while at the wheel.

Any ideas regarding making access to engine from head and shower side? And still have usable shower! Charles A. Lininger, Washington, DC

Dear Charles,
I do not recall these exact figures, however, owners have relied in the past on the figures listed by the Coast Guard itself. Contact your local CG station and you might find another 422 listed to guide you through the documentation process. The CG has done this in the past, especially for boats no longer in production.

I am anticipating the purchase of a sailboat this Fall, and the Pearson 30 is on the short list. I have noticed that there are at least three different models of the Pearson 30.

Can you please tell me the major differences between the Pearson 30 the Pearson Coaster, the Pearson Cruiser and the Pearson Flyer? I am interested in a good cruiser/weekender. Which would you suggest? Keven Sard

Dear Keven,
All very different boats. There was also the Wanderer. No comparison to each other can be made. The Coaster and Wanderer were the same hull from the water line up. The Coaster had a keel and the Wanderer had a centerboard/keel arrangement.

I own a 1986 P36 and am in desperate need of rocker switches. Caliber has the same switch, but they will not even respond to non-caliber owners. I am looking for at least a dozen, because I just bought a 1989 P39. Eric Lipnack

Dear Eric,
Try Radio Shack or a similar electronics supplier. They might have them. Just be sure to tell them that they are for a 12V system and marine use. A better insulation than available for standard use might be warranted.