Bill Shaw Answers The Mail - The Pearson Current - Volume 3, #2

BILL SHAW ANSWERS THE MAIL
The Pearson Current - Volume 3, #2 - 1996

I have a Pearson 10 Meter, 1974 Model. I need a small piece of the mast, about 24 inches in order to sleeve my mast due to corrosion at the base. The corrosion has been caused by the use of a steel mast step and the aluminum mast without a barrier between them. Other 10 Meter owners might be interested in this condition.

I have contacted these companies: Hall in Bristol, RI; Metal Mast in Putnam, CT; New England Rigging, East Greenwich, RI; Big-Rite in Warick, RI. Only Rig-Rite might have a piece but they have not yet confirmed this. Do you know of any other possible sources? I would greatly appreciate a call back or a letter. I know that Pearson is no longer in business and BaySail in Fall River was mentioned to me that they were the buyer of Pearson’s inventories, but I struck out there also. Your newsletter is great and improving with every issue!
— Bob Hamilton, Winchester, MA

Dear Bob,
Like everything else in the world of production—model design, style, engineering and technology dictate constant change. At this point, we doubt that you will find a replacement part in stock. You have hit most of the suppliers we’ve worked with. If the corroded portion of the mast is small, you might simply square it off and then add a flat plate to the bottom to make up the length. This plate should have a means to secure it to the mast. If the corroded portion is longer you might have a sleeve made in a local machine shop. The sleeve should be attached to the mast with SS machine screws. Let us know how you make out.

I have a P-36, Hull No. 47 purchased in 1985. The "Portholes" are white plastic with a type of plastic "glass," which has developed severe interior crazing. Can this be replaced, or do you recommend new parts altogether? Where can I obtain suitable material and how is replacement accomplished? Your help is very much appreciated.
— William K. Duff, Mystic, CT

Dear William,
Without actually seeing your specific ports, it would be difficult to know exactly which manufacturer was used at the time yours was built. It would be best to consult the various boating catalogs and seek new ones that best fit yours. The plexiglass used in the ports can be replaced in most models but you might find it cost effective to just replace the entire unit. Let us know what you end up doing so that we can inform other members.

Please help me determine what pitch and diameter prop I should be using. I think my 85 P422 with W58 Westerbeke is over-propped. My max RPM with prop and hull clean is 2300 RPM. This equals almost 9K (with a lot of smoke). 18-1900 RPM seems best. This gets 7.5 K on about 1.7GPH.

I am not complaining about the speed, but concerned that the engine might be lugging. I am going to haul out in a couple of weeks, so would appreciate an answer ASAP. I don’t know what pitch and diameter I have now.
— King Benson, Knoxville, TN

Dear King,
Your best bet is to have a talk with the folks at Westerbeke. The relationship between prop, engine and boat is not one that can be altered without considerable thought and professional input. Other alterations to the boat that we may not know about might have added weight and therefore the new displacement would also need to be factored in. Do you get excessive vibration? 2300 rpm on its own is not excessive but with the wrong prop could lead to stuffing box and possibly drive shaft damage.

I am currently searching for a replacement for the vinyl molding (rub rail) that goes around the aft end of the motor well. It is such a simple PVC corner molding, but I have no luck in finding a replacement. Any help would be very much appreciated.
— Peter Fein, Princeton, NJ

Dear Peter,
Again, production runs just do not last forever. The boating catalogs occasionally have several types of moldings and you might check with any local boat builders in your area to see what suppliers they might be working with now. Some modifications might be needed to attach the replacement but you should find a workable substitute.

We recently purchased a 1981 Pearson 365 Ketch (Hull #370). I was hoping you or one of the members might be able to help answer the following question: There are four small trapezoidal shaped brackets on the stern pulpit—two on each vertical stanchion. They are about one inch across and one inch high. One is mounted about 9 inches above the deck and the other about 9 inches above that one. They are welded on the stanchions and thus seem to be part of the original equipment. Any idea what they are for?
—William W. Stark, Jr., Los Altos Hills, CA

Dear William,
I believe these brackets were part of a davit arrangement. I do not recall who made them.

I need information on the center board lanyard "plumbing" on my 1978 P35. Specifically, on the size and material type for the plumbing union and pipe that run under the cabin sole.

The boat nearly sank at the dock this past fall when the union broke in half, not in the threaded area, as one would expect, but through the hex body on the male half, see sketch. Also, any help on availability (if it’s not standard, readily available material) would be appreciated.
— David R. Thornton, Middletown, RI

Dear David,
All the fillings with the exception of the sheave boxes were standard marine plumbing items. An additional thought on this—as a stan-dard practice, you should check out these fittings and the cable itself each year before launching.

I own a 1975 P10M, Universal Atomic 4 with 7/8" shaft diameter. I would like your suggestion on Stuffing box repair, specifically which size stuffing to use. On removal, the old stuffing resembled 3/ 16", although there was a piece that looked closer to 1/4". I had purchased both sizes, and decided upon the 3/16". I put four circles of it into the nut (where the old packing was) and replaced it onto the fixed threaded rod part attached to the hull by a length of rubber tubing. There seemed to be enough room for the 1/4" to fit as well, but since the 3/16" fit ok, I decided not to try changing it to larger until one of the following occur. Please circle the most appropriate number:

1. You think that I should leave the 3/16" in place, and it becomes unadjustable in five years of normal operation (my first choice).

2. You tell me that 1/4" is the right size.

3. You tell me that you haven’t the slightest idea what the correct size is, but you suppose that using the largest size that fits is the way to go.

4. Launch day, and an uncontrollable leak from the box (least favorite choice).

I imagine that you are inundated with these requests, that’s why I made this like a check list with a SASE for your convenience.
— Barrie Soloway

Dear Barrie,
I suggest you choose no. 5 and consult with your yard mechanic. This is just too important to leave to the mail. Changes may have been made to your equipment over the years that would alter the specific stuffing you should use. Once having had the yard do it and watching how it is done and the size stuffing they decide to use, you are prepared to undertake the task the next time.

Several months ago you were kind enough to send me the names of the other two Rhodes 41 owners. This information was important enough to use so that I put it away in a place so secure that it could not be lost. Problem is I cannot remember where that secure place is. If you could resupply me with the names of these two skippers, one in Louisiana and one in California, I would very much appreciate it. wpe6.jpg (24595 bytes)

On second thought, let me pose the question that I want to ask the other Rhodes 41 owners. Perhaps there are tables like mine in other boats.

In an accident that happened before I became the owner of my boat, the dining table was knocked loose. Cylin-der A fits over Cylinder B and one or two bolts fitted in two threaded holes and through long slot in Cylinder A keep table from turning. On my boat, the top hole was gnarled and the bottom hole had the remains of a sheared off bolt in it. I have extracted that sheared off bolt and screwed a new bolt in. The diameter of the bolt that fits in the hole is much less than the width of the slot. Therefore, the table has some play in a turning motion. The table is raised and lowered by inserting a racket wrench extension bar into the socket in the upper cylinder and turning it up or down in the threaded nut welded into the top of cylinder B. However with cylinder (A) in the full up or full down position the table still has some play in the forward aft, port, starboard or any other direction.

My thought is that I could fit a bolt with a shoulder that matched the width of the slot and the threads fit the hole. Then I wonder, why two holes? Did it have two bolts?

Does anyone know how this was originally set up? Any help would be appreciated.
—Lars J. Steib, Houston, TX.

Dear Lars,
Sorry this one was even before my time. I can only suggest that a machinist look at it for I have never seen this type of table arrange-ment. Hopefully another R41 owner and member of NPYOA might see this and help you out.

My wife and I purchased a 1985 Pearson 34 in 1991. We have had nothing but great times and care-free sailing experiences! Last fall, I noticed that the bilge pump (rule 500) was engaged via the floater switch but the pump was not removing the bilge water. I assumed a blockage in the through-hull fitting or in the exhaust hose. I disconnected the hose and noted that the pump was pushing out the water at a furious pace. I blew into the hose and no impedance was felt. I then reconnected the hose and the bilge subsequently drained. This has happened several times and has worried me. There is a loop of exhaust hose with a vent (I am told but I cannot visualize— hidden behind the bulkhead) to prevent back siphon of the outside water and also a one-way valve (checked and OK) in the line to prevent shower water from entering the bilge (common exit lines shared by the bilge and shower). It appears that some type of vacuum lock occurs preventing the water from exiting. Can this happen? Where should I check next to prevent this "mystery blockage" from happening again? We don’t always get to the boat every week and on a mooring this bilge situation could prove to be a disaster! Help!
—Kevin & Anne Grace, W. Brookfield, MA

Dear Kevin & Anne,
You are certainly right to be concerned about this problem. I do not think I can fully respond because of how the problem is described. If someone has connected the suction side of the bilge pump to the shower drain and if it is also connected to the bilge suction then it is indeed becoming air bound via the shower drain. You should have a dedicated bilge pump, and a dedicated shower pump with a manual on-off switch.

There was mention in The Current of a Pearson 365 cutter. I have a P365 81, sloop. My question is, what needs to be done to make this work and how does this effect performance? While I am a cruiser, I want the best performance with the least amount of work.
—Norman Robertson, Kemah, TX

Dear Norman,
We had a few requests for a sloop rig, leaving the mast in the same position. This resulted in a very narrow fore-triangle that did not lend itself for the installation of a fore-stay. The cutter was designed as a cutter from the start. Since you are only interested in cruising and looking for less work, I suggest you consider a club jib. Check this idea out with your local sailmaker.

I sent you a fax last October 7, 1996. Is there any way to know if it reached destination?

I have a few more questions about my Pearson 390, 1972, Hull #28. How to locate the centerboard Pivot, Pin. What is the displacement of such a boat. I am also looking for the halfround rubber gasket being used on all deck hatches. Is it possible to get the previous issues of the newsletter? The first one I received was Vol. 2 No. 3- 95. I’ll be happy to pay for them.
—Luc Fontaine, FL

Dear Luc
If we did not get back to you on your fax we did not receive it. Please send it again or call us. We are running short of back issues but have them on disk. We are attempting to compile and publish them as a single volume.

The centerboard pin is in the keel and the best way to locate it is to haul the boat and use a flash light to look up the CB trunk. As with other models the CB pin is in a pocket on each side of the trunk. The displacement is about 21000 lbs. We used a form of weather stripping years ago. The boat suppliers carry various types or try Home Depot.

In September, I sold my 10M and bought a 424 sloop which I named "Mother Ocean." My immediate problem: the boat has what I understand was an optional bow extension, two small anchors and no windlass. I am in the process of buying two larger anchors (a 45# danforth and a 50# Delta), all-chain rode and a windlass. An engineer friend (admittedly a dangerous breed) has told me that I should remove the bow extension because there is no way it could withstand the stress of heavy ground tackle in bad weather. I’m not looking to withstand a hurricane at anchor but I do plan to do the Bahama islands in the winter and I understand it’s not that rare to experience 40 knots and, if you are unlucky, to be in an anchorage that turns pretty choppy. Another friend and advisor tells me to keep the bow extension in place and if I have concern in a particular situation then I should lead the chain off the roller onto chocks slightly aft of the extension to ride out the weather and return the chain to the roller once it’s time to haul anchor and leave. The second option sounds reasonable unless the need to leave arises during the heavy weather.

What advice can you give me? How much stress was that bow extension designed to take? Any information will be helpful.

Oh yes, another request: is it possible to buy a xerox copy of the 424 owner’s manual? If not, can you provide one piece of information that’s critical: "Mother Ocean" has a Hood stoway mast. What is the height of this mast above the water?

Thanks for your help! Is it true that Pearson is going back into production?
— Del Budzinski, Oakland Park, FL

Dear Del,
The Pearson name has been bought and the folks at Cal-Pearson have committed to producing some of the Pearson Yachts. More to come later from Bill L. on that subject. I do not recall designing the anchor rollers etc., maybe we did! If so, it was intended as a device to stow the anchors under moderate conditions, not under storm conditions. When sailing off shore, the anchors should be removed and stowed. They were never intended to be used at anchor especially under severe conditions. You should lead them, with chaffing, gear directly through a chock if you fear heavy winds or weather.

We own a Pearson 365 ketch 1976/hull #89. I believe it has the original Westerbeke 40 engine, Paragon SOAD gearbox and V-drive. The propeller is a 3 blade 17-inch, but I am not sure of the pitch. This arrangement makes for a craft that is difficult to bring to a stop while docking except with a great deal of care, favorable wind and tide. We would appreciate any opinions/experience on how to improve this situation. We have debated acquiring a MaxProp (would 2 or 3 blade be best)? Or possibly changing the gearbox (a Velvet drive has been brought to our attention). Any comments or ideas would be welcome.
—Andy & Beryl Bainbridge

Dear Andy & Beryl,
I had a 365 for a year, docked and undocked it many times under all kinds of conditions. The boat had more than ample power and its fixed prop was never a problem to handle. However, as with many reverse gears, the astern rotation is less than for forward. This means you must apply more power when backing down. Always approach at low speed.

I have a 1977 Pearson 26 One Design. I love the boat, and the hull is excellent, but am concerned about erosion/corrosion of the keel bolts and their retaining nuts. The nuts, especially the end ones with the chain plate ground, are badly rusted away. The local yard tells me that the "fix" is to set new bolts, drill sideways through the cast iron keel, and put in retaining nuts.

They say the cast iron keels typically have voids that make drilling and tapping impractical. This sounds really expensive. I’ve wondered about chiseling away the nuts, retapping the bolts, and installing stainless nuts. I also worry about the keel having worked and salt water corrosion of the bolts having occurred between the keel stub and the keel itself. The boat is in Houston where the water is warm for most of the year. I welcome your thoughts and thanks for designing a great fun boat.
—Musgrove39@aol.com

Dear "Musgrove39,"
The keel bolts were not threaded into the keel flange, instead they passed through and were secured with washers and nuts inside the hull. At this point in time, it might be best to drop the keel by removing all of the bolts and fit new ones.

I am interested in moving up from my O’day Mariner to a sloop-rigged 38-45 footer, less than 5' of draft (keel centerboard preferred), of classic lines, and in my price range (less than $50k). The boat I can’t seem to beat is the Pearson 39 1972 76. The vessel has everything I’m looking for, with the possible exception of a tri-cabin layout.

A broker mentioned I should also look out for a Pearson 43 (c. 1970 vintage) and a Pearson Invicta. A 1981 Pearson 424 just came out in Soundings (almost) in my price range. Could you please tell me if these or any other Pearson models are out there that fit my criteria, and where can I find out more about the above mentioned models? Do you have any personal thoughts on these boats or where to look for one for sale, other than Soundings and the like? I look forward to your response and to the eventual purchase of a fine Pearson yacht.
—Steve Van Pelt

Dear Steve,
One thing all my years in this business has taught me is not to recommend a type of boat to a serious sailor. We are all so particular about what we like and want that it becomes a most personal decision. My best recommendation has always been to try to sail on as many of the type boats your are thinking of as possible and talk to owners, something you can now do through the NPYOA. Take your time, the right boat will come along and only you will know it when it happens.