Bill Shaw Answers The Mail - The Pearson Current - Volume 3, #1

BILL SHAW ANSWERS THE MAIL
The Pearson Current - Volume 3, #1 - 1996

A note to Pearson owners. Last year after a very choppy ride in Buzzard’s Bay, I suffered salt water getting into #3 cylinder which resulted in a very expensive repair at a well-known yard in CT. This past month, after a great ride down the Jersey Coast on a broad reach the same thing happened. Now after a second valve job the latest mechanic said the problem stems from the low level of the exhaust manifold which allowed salt water to flow back into the cylinder when the boat pitches excessively. Practical Sailor, (7/15/86) states that the engine installation in the P365 "should have a proper exhaust system that cannot let water back into the manifold." It seems that Pearson did nothing to fix a known problem nor to notify owners that it existed. I would suggest that Pearson owners check the installation of their manifolds and have them reworked if indicated.
— Ed Tracey, E. Norwalk, CT

Dear Ed,
You refer to the low level of the exhaust manifold which is part of the engine and not a Pearson product. Pearson used two types of mufflers, a vertical standpipe and an aqua lift type. In most of the cases reported to us, water getting into the engine was a result of the operator excessively cranking an out-of-tune engine. When this happens, the water pump would deliver water to the muffler, but since there was no combustion, no pressure was applied to force of the water out through the exhaust pipe.

When running before following seas, it’s possible that breaking water could be forced into the exhaust system, creating the problem you mention. This is especially true when the engine is not running. This is also why offshore sailors install a valve in the exhaust line to prevent flooding.

It is critically important that the hose leading from the muffler has a vertical loop extending well above the waterline and leads down directly out of the boat. Any dip in this hose section could collect water that will be sucked back into the engine. It is also very important that the exhaust hose be located as close as possible to the centerline of the boat.

Pearson always solved problems like this and then sent their solution to dealers and registered owners.

I currently own a 1986 Pearson P-36, fin keel version, Hull #131. I am primarily a cruiser and find that this boat fulfills all my needs as to sailing performance and handling. Sailing in the northeast, the over six foot draft has never really been a problem. I’m happy with the P-36’s design, and have no intentions of looking for another boat in the near future. My problem is that I’m contemplating relocating to So. Carolina or Georgia, and I fear that 6'4" of draft will become a problem. I’ve spoken to a number of people from that area and received mixed opinions. The questions that I hope you can help me with are:

1. Do you think that a wing keel is available for the P-36, and where would I look to locate any information on such a replacement keel.

2. What is your opinion of cutting two feet off the existing keel and bolting on casted torpedo bulbs, (from a company like Mars Metal in Burlington, Ontario, Canada, who state they will cast systems for my boat and that the performance will not suffer).

3. Do you think that changing the draft/keel would not be a sound idea, and that the boat’s performance and/or safety will suffer.

Any advice and/or insight into this dilemma that I am facing would greatly be appreciated. Thank you.
— Joe De Napoli, Staten Island, NY

Dear Joe,
Try Seaboard Foundry, 401-942-2200 they may have patterns for the wing keel. The performance will definitely suffer. Even the wing keel was less efficient that the deep keel. I do not recommend that you change the draft keel.

Thanks for the recent member information and newsletter for the National Pearson Yacht Owners Association (NPYOA).

I currently have several projects on my P35 for which I am seeking information. I would be interested in hearing success stories from owners who have addressed the problems.

First, I would be interested in those owners who have serviced (or improved upon) the centerboard lifting mechanism, including the pivot pin, pennant tube, or the winch. My system seems to be suffering from excessive friction and is in need of maintenance.

Second, the cockpit sole is soft in places. Water has permeated into the balsa core and has weakened the laminate. This appears to be limited to a 1 square foot area just aft of the binnacle. I’m told that this is common with some older hulls.

Third, I wish to replace my molded fiberglass hatches (forward and amidships) with alloy/lexan units. This involves modifying the hatch openings in the cabin coachroof (similar to the 1976 and later models) to accept the new hatches.

Any assistance or member references who have experienced similar problems and have information which might help with the implementation of these projects would be greatly appreciated.
Rene H. Bernier, Newport, RI

Dear Rene,
Occasionally, the vertical bulkhead in the cabin on which the CB lifting cable wheel housing is mounted, works its way forward. This causes the wheel housing to rub against the counter top. A brace after pushing the bulkhead back in vertical alignment may be all you need to free up the action of the lifting gear.

We have not heard of any softening of the cockpit sole, but if this is a problem you should drill out small sections, allow them to dry if wet and fill in the space with epoxy. Be sure to capture the entire affected area and scrape away any mildewed balsa. You will have to gelcoat and/or glass the area when finished. You may want to get professional help before undertaking this job if you aren’t comfortable with the process and materials.

Many P35 owners have replaced their forward and midships hatches. You will surely have to re-configure the hatch openings to fit the specific hatch you decide to buy. There is a wide range of choices available in any marine catalog. Just be sure to buy one that suits the type of sailing you intend to do. You might also want to in-crease your below deck ventilation by getting a hatch that has a versatile opening—for and aft—system.

Read with interest last report of P31 Rudders. Our hull #25 was pretty early. So I wonder if it’s OK?

We’ve owned the boat since 1991 and sailed her about 2800 miles, mostly in Penobscot Bay and the Gulf of Main. She’s been in some heavy weather and the Rudder did leave its mark once on a granite ledge (or was that the other way?) and it’s been fine. Go figure!
— Doug Mayer, Oneonta, NY

Dear Doug,
Rudders have been subjected to many forms of abuse. It is impossible to speculate on the condition of any after years of sailing. The best insurance is to include a careful check of the rudder and all its hardware as frequently as possible because sailing without one is less than enjoyable.

First, let me note how much I enjoy the Pearson newsletter and look forward to each issue. We were disappointed we could not attend the owners gathering in Newport, RI last year as our vacation was planned later in the month, as was a winter vacation which overlapped the Atlantic City Boat Show. Well, maybe some year. Also, thank you for the NPYOA members boat listing of Pearson 33 owners. We do know one couple, Diane and Gary Gladstone (boat name KAKU) who sail from Pilot’s Point Marina in Westbrook, CT. That was also our marina until October, when we moved our boat to Willsboro Bay Marina on Lake Champlain.

Of the many questions I would like to ask Bill Shaw, two are of prime importance. I will state them separately below in the hope that at least one (hopefully the first) may be answered.

My P-33 (1986) is a keel/centerboard model. How often should centerboard control line (which leads to the cockpit) be replaced? How does one locate the pin holding the centerboard to the keel and what is involved in removing it? What is the wire/rope length of the control line?

The P-33 has very shallow bilges and water sloshes into the main cabin when heeled over 20 degrees. Unfortunately, the water tanks deform slightly when filled and leak from the top, filling the bilges. Other than replacing water tanks, are there any recommendations for keeping the bilges dry, i.e., water tank modifications, special bilge pumps, etc.?

Thank you for your efforts on behalf of Pearson owners. I look forward to meeting you, and other Pearson owners, in the future.
John M. Cianci, Loudonville, NY

Dear John,
The CB pendant should be checked annually, especially if the boat is berthed in a slip. Stray electrical currents can be very damaging. There are two pockets in the keel, one on each side where the CB pin is located. Cover plates were installed covering the pin. To locate it requires the boat be lifted in a sling so you can look up into the CB trunk to see the pin. Its position F & A as well as vertically can then be determined. Sand away the bottom paint to uncover the plate. The lengths of the CB pendants will have to be determined from the existing one.

The shallow bilge question is, simply speaking, one of the trade-offs we had to make when designing the 33 for the market it was intended to appeal to. I am not sure what is causing the deformation of your water tanks, but that should be investigated. One suggestion might be not to top off the tanks which are causing the water to accumulate in the bilge. You also might try installing a small hand pump that leads to a convenient spot for occasional pumping. Do you have a sump pump for the refrigerator? Some models had an overboard lead for that and you might link it with a three-way valve to another line into the bilge.