Bill Shaw Answers The Mail - The Pearson Current - Volume 2, #4

BILL SHAW ANSWERS THE MAIL
The Pearson Current - Volume 2, #4 - 1995

I was pleased to learn about your organization. John Parker and I are original owners of Elnath, hull #157, a keel-centerboard Pearson 34. I have particularly enjoyed the boat this year after acquiring a spinnaker for the first time. I would be most grateful if you or perhaps one of your organization could help me answer three questions about the boat. First, have keel-centerboard P34’s experienced the same failure of the spade rudder described in the May 1991 edition of Practical Sailor? We have had no problem so far. If widespread problems exist, is there a recommendation about how to strengthen or if need be replace the rudder at this time. Second, have owners experienced problems with the original shaft seal as we did and are there recommendations about replacement? Third, does anyone know what type of varnish was used as the original finish on the interior? I look forward to participating in your organization.
- John T. Bowers, III, Norfolk, VA

Dear John,
I cannot recall a rudder problem with this model, but you should contact Rudy at D&R, they should have a handle on this. As far as the shaft seal is concerned, we would need more information about this. As to your question about varnish, there would be no way to know because we used various brands over the years.

Thanks for your efforts toward getting parts, info, etc., for our boats. Way down South we have many people who praise these boats, and this being my very first sailboat, I’m glad for what it is: Pearson 23, 1978 model.

The questions I have for Mr. Shaw are:

Is the CB ballasted? If so how much? Do I need plans for laying one up, or is there anywhere I can purchase one? How much different is performance/handling without the centerboard? As far as parts for the centerboard, could I get a schematic of/or parts list that includes the rod the centerboard swings on—mine is broken off. (It looks like a connecting rod for a Chevrolet V/8 engine.)

I also need the keel cable and pin that draws the keel up. Possibly he can direct me toward these parts. Again, thank you for your efforts and I’m looking forward to reading the newsletters and future information.
- John R. Stoutenburg, Hattiesburg, MS

Dear John,
The CB is ballasted only to assist it going down — not as ballast. See D&R for a CB replacement and/or parts. Up wind, the CB makes a big difference on performance.

My boating days may be coming to a close. I bought a used Pearson 35 (#95) in 1974 and have owned it since. Now that I am almost 78 years old with a wife (Capt., that is . . .) who just had her 75th our boating activities have suffered and I contemplate its sale. The boat is berthed at Chesapeake Boat Basin in Indian Creek just north of the Rappahannock River on the western shore of the Bay.

In an effort to extend our boating days two years ago, I added a roller furling jib (Profurl #L-31) sail by Scott in Annapolis. I recommend this rig as it has been completely trouble-free. Rigging was done by Ocran Boat Yard in Dymer Creek, just below Indian Creek. One can buy cheaper but I doubt it will be better. I also recommend "New England’s" 3/8" regatta braid furing line—soft to handle and no hockles.

A friend of mine has a Pearson 35 that ran into a problem while transitting the Inland Waterway several years ago. In alligator River he lost steerage when the rudder separated from the rudder post. He was towed and hauled. It was determined that the rudder plate imbedded in the fiberglass and welded to the rudder post broke at the weld. The yard was able (at considerable expense) to cut into the rudder, welded some reinforcing straps to both the imbedded plate and to the post and re-glassed the rudder. Ever since his experience, I have my fingers crossed in dirty weather; when is mine going to go? Is there a way to foretell this weakness? Could one buy an improved rudder today? I mention this incident because I feel it is typical of what one might want from NPYOA. Is this the type of problem that may be addressed by some old hands?

Another item of interest to me is the availability of brown plastic extrusion used in the cabin sole hatches sill available? Still another is the after port light in the salon area. This is an aluminum extrusion and several tries to render it watertight between the glass and the extrusion have failed. There are some items for a newsletter. Also repowering is always a consideration on older boats. When the advertising says a particular engine is an exact interchange with the Atomic Four I question it. Like the Hertz ad on TV, "Well, not exactly" . . . . My Pearson was furnished with the Atomic four without reduction gear. I always felt that Pearson should never have been offered that model without a 2:1 reduction gear so as to swing a larger prop with greater pitch. Might sacrifice a little speed under sail but gain improved performance when docking in strong currents on the Intracoastal Waterway or when bucking heavy seas while cruising. Presumably, one interested in racing would have bought a different boat . . . . There you have some thoughts that may be typical of Pearson 35 owners.
- Donald MacLeod, Kilmarnock, VA

Dear Donald,
One must remember that the P35s were built almost 30 years ago. The weld failure is probably the result of water getting into the interior of the rudder. I would think that D&R has replacements. The first sign of a problem is staining on the exterior of the blade. There may also be some looseness between the blade and the rudder stock. I’m not sure I know about the extrusion material. About fixing window leaks, I suggest putting a small bead of silicone or other bedding material (#5200) on the frame or glass — let it set up overnight, then apply more bedding and assemble the window. This method usually works because the small bead forms a gasket that prevents squeezing out the soft material. Finally, the small diesels made by Universal were very close to the Atomic 4’s in configuration. We used direct drive because that’s what the market wanted when racing in a boat like the P35 was a high priority.

My 1980 Pearson 40 has small blisters similar to those described by Richard Duval in Vol. 2, No. 3, in his article "A Magic Carpet Ride to Turkey." My bottom paint lasts less than one year in a fresh water lake with these blisters. What is currently believed to be the best treatment for this problem? My hull specialist at my marina (where they build the Valiant Yachts) says epoxy has proven to be unacceptable due to cracking after a few years. He is recommending a new vinyl product, but has had no experience with it. How would you treat the problem?
- James M. Clay, Dallas, TX

Dear James,
Contact Glidden Paint Co., they made a product called Blister Guard or Blister Bloc. I am not sure they still offer it but will surely make a recommendation for you.

I am writing to inquire if your file of back issues contains an answer to my question: On a P-39 sloop, is there a design criterion for use of the centerboard? i.e., a condition beyond which the board should/should not be used?

I don’t use the board too often and I have talked to others who say they almost never use it.
- Bill Drury, Virginia Beach, VA

Dear Bill,
A centerboard design when incorporated into a specific boat, is done so for a reason. By not using the CB you are giving up a great deal of performance underway. Off the wind, depending upon the wind velocity the use of the CB will vary. In light air let the board all the way down when beating. In strong wind the board should be between ¾ and ½ down when beam reaching or close hauled, between ¼ and ½ when on a broad reach. When running before the wind the board should be all the way up unless you are having difficulty steering, in which case you will find that a little board will help stabilize the boat.

The Ensign Class has found a source for Pearson Ensign mast sections, however, they are not anodized. Can NPYOA recommend a business where we could ship these masts for anodizing.
- Robert C. Warner, Commodore
Ensign Class Association

Dear Robert,
There were two companies with anodizing capability; Metal Mast in Connecticut, and Sound Spar on Long Island, in New York. You might also try Hall Spars in Bristol, 401-253- 1680. Failing here, you might try painting the spars you located with either Imron or Awlgrip. You can do this yourself with a careful reading of the instructions and by using the proper protective gear.