The World According To
Bill Shaw

 

BILL SHAW ANSWERS THE MAIL
The Pearson Current - Volume 2, #2 - 1995

To all NPYOA members Many of your questions aren’t answerable, either because the system on the boat has been changed/altered or parts are simply no longer available. We invite you to let us know if you have suggestions on any of the following issues, especially if you have any of the drawings, plans or manuals requested.


We purchased a 1983, Pearson 37 Hull#36 in Clearlake, Texas last year and we moved it to Eagle Mountain Lake in Ft. Worth, Texas. Our intention is to retire in 4 years and move the Boat back to the coast. The wife and I would like to do some blue water sailing after I retire.

The boat sat for almost 2 years with very little use, so when we purchased her she needed a lot of bright work done on the outside, which we have been doing and are nearly completed. The boat was designed as a racer, however, we intend to cruise only with the Boat. We have done some racing with her but even if you take the gun, the slower boats usually have time over you. It is impossible to compete with the J24s and some of the hot rod boats.

Most of the owners manuals have been wet and the (2) blue prints are unreadable, I have contacted Mr. Shaw and he told me that he thought he had the blue prints in his basement.

We are trying to find out the history of the 37 Pearson. How many 37 Pearson Boats were built? When did they stop building the 37? Is this boat OK for a cruising boat? Are there any quirks that we should know about the boat? What is the baby stay for, and how do we use it? How do we use the hydraulic backstay and boom vang for maximum effectiveness when under sail both in high wind and under light air? What jibs should we use for effective sailing and maximum speed? What determines when it is best suited to reef the main? Approximate wind velocity for the first reef and then also approximate wind velocity for the second reef? Would it be possible to hear from other 37 Pearson owners? We have a lot to learn about the boat. It is a beautiful boat and we are very proud of her.

We would like to know where we can mount a generator? (possibly behind the quarter berth) and we are also trying to replace the windows (the windows are over sized and not standard windows) but we cannot find anyone who supplies the parts or accessories for the boat, also is there a transverse Stability data indicating a range of positive righting chart available for this boat?. Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated. I wish to thank you for your time and we are looking forward to hearing from you.
Terry L. Tornow
Saginaw, Tx

Dear Terry,
The 37 was actually designed as a cruiser/racer and I am not surprised that she is not competitive against the smaller PHRF boats. I was not able to find the printed information you requested, Bill is trying to solve this problem for NPYOA members and will surely keep you informed of his progress. Forty-three P37s were built and yes, the boat is OK for cruising. The baby stay is a mast support as well as used to induce a bend in the mast when desired. It is removable so that you can use your spinnaker.

Regarding your other questions, they would require a rather extensive response. We suggest that you contact a local sail maker and spend some time with him or her. You will find that local conditions, experience with your boat, and the vast working knowledge of local professionals will prove to be of great assistance to you.

The boat did not come with a generator so we did not design a specific spot for it. After choosing which one you want, how it will be used, and its size etc., your local yard will be able to fit it into your boat without too much trouble.


My boat is a 1984 P-303. I need any info on my lower rudder bearing/replace or repair and what is normal play. Thank you.
Paul Freglette
Huntington Station, NY

Dear Paul,
There should not be more than 1/16" of play here. This is a bronze casting for both the pintle and gudgeon. You would need the original drawings in order to replace either part.


I would appreciate it if you can advise the MAXIMUM pressure I should put on the backstay with my Nautec hydraulic adjuster.
Marvin Gordon

Dear Marvin,
The pressure should not exceed 25% of the breaking strength of the wire. Listed below are some breaking strength values for various wires used in the production of Pearson Yachts. It should be recognized that the 25% is a conservative figure but other factors such as hull type, mast height, and sail plan also play a part in the total tension on the standing rigging.

Wire Size Breaking Strength
5/32 3300
3/16 4700
7/32 6300
1/4 8200
9/32 10300

Take 25% of these values for max pressure.

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Help! We bought our 1885 P303 last year with the mast down. Seems like the mast wedges are missing! Any ideas on a source? Are they standard boat yard items? Appreciate any help. Thanks.
Ralph Mills
Newburgh, N.Y.

Dear Ralph,
These were not standard and are usually made by a boat carpenter. You should ask a qualified yard carpenter to make a new set up for you.


I currently own a 1987 Pearson 31. I am trying to locate replacement bulbs for the interior swivel lights located in the cabin berths. Thank you in advance for any help you can provide. Dennis Root
Windsor, CT

Dear Dennis,
You might first try the Major boating catalogs, West, E & B, Defenders, or Boat/US. They often have a fairly large selection of bulbs. If that is not successful call D&R Enterprises, 508-644-3001.


Thank you for publishing the ad for my Pearson 30 in the Pearson Current. The boat has been sold. The new owner, lives on Victoria Island, B.C. I have provided him with the address of the NPYOA. We are now regularly sailing our P-323 on the San Francisco Bay.

Question: My P-323, #50, has the starter switch and diesel fuel cutoff lever in the starboard sail locker under the hatch cover. Later models had a molded plastic fitting for these controls in the cockpit on the exterior of the starboard sail locker. I would like to know if someone might know where I can obtain such a fitting.
G. James
West Davis, CA

Dear G. James,
There is no set answer to this. Most likely the original manufacturer is not making that specific model at this point. You will probably have to retrofit it with recommendations from your yard.


I am interested in obtaining diagrams of my boat. It’s a 1976 39' #PEA 450 79M76E. I am also having problems aligning Walters RV-10V-Drive and would appreciate any information on corrections to original design of brackets holding drive. I purchased the boat in a repossession yard (an experience I would only wish on my worst enemy) and I have no paper work with the boat. Any help would be appreciated and any history of the boat’s manufacture, etc. would be welcome. Thanks.
Wendelin J. Giebel
Long Island Sound Sailing School and Charters

Dear Wendelin,
I do not recall any changes made from the original design. I suggest you have your yard mechanic take a look at it.


Your help will be appreciated. I have a 1969 (Hull #88) Shaw design Pearson 35 K/C. I have been trying to find drawings for the optional water tank designed for that boat without much luck. I would imagine that someone out there must have them and the NPYOA might be able to help me find them. Is it possible to contact Bill Shaw, who I imagine still has the plans. I would be happy to pay for copies of the plans.
Edward Lieberman
Greenville NC

Dear Edward,
Again, we do not as yet have access to this, you can try calling D&R (listed above). They might have what you need.


As an owner of a 365 ketch I took interest in Bill Shaw’s reply to a letter from F.M. Atherton of Miami Beach regarding the stability range of the 365. In this letter Bill Shaw states that the 365 was not specifically designed for ocean passages and would require some modifications. Could you please ask Bill to reply as to what these modifications might be? This letter appeared in Vol. 1, No. 4 1995 issue, Thanks.
Norman Meissner
Bradenton FL

Dear Norman,
The issue of TPC you mentioned (Vol 1, No 4) covered this topic as well as we could without a major evaluation for each Pearson model. Some Pearsons were measured and rated by U.S. Sailing, try contacting them for your 365. For the most part, the 365 is a coastal cruiser and is not designed for offshore, blue water cruising. There are several good books written on the factors to consider both for the boat and for the crew when venturing offshore. We suggest you consult with them and decide how much in the way of modifications you feel comfortable with.


Perhaps you can help answer the following question: I understand that some early Pearson 31s required replacement rudders due to a bad batch of resin which never quite hardened. How can I find out if I need such work or if it has already been done?
Laura and Joshua Schwartz
Westport, Ct.

Dear Laura and Joshua,
For a brief period, there was a problem with the 31 rudders. It was related to a contract we had to build them out of high density foam to save weight. Unfortunately the manufacturer did not use the specified foam and as a result, a few did indeed split apart. We subsequently implemented a retrofit for P31s that had the inadequate rudders. Fortunately, the problem was discovered early and only a few boats were delivered with these rudders.


I have a question for Bill Shaw and other P33 owners. My genoa sheets frequently get caught on my forward hatch while I am tacking. What is the cure? Thanks.
Alan H. Silverman wpe1A.jpg (7059 bytes)
Kalamazoo, MI

Dear Alan,
This is a common problem easily solved most of the time. What you need is a fairing block (teak) that will guide the sheet clear of the lip on the hatch.

 


I currently own a 1985 Pearson 36, center board version (Hull #74). I think it’s an excellent sailing vessel and I am not the original owner. After a steady progression of moving up from a 20 footer to the P-36, I have become a believer in the adage "the bigger become the more complicated." I have had problems with the excellently designed (but poorly manufactured) water-lift muffler. I am working on installing for the second time in four years a new water-lift muffler. The original (I think) was made of stainless steel, as was the first replacement I installed. The sulfuric gases/mixing of exhaust caused both to corrode prematurely in my estimation. I am now about to install a third version made of steel, which I also had professionally galvanized. If any readers have had similar problems and know of a good replacement for the P-36 made of FRP or similar material please contact me.

I also recently had to drop the rudder to fix a leak caused by the inappropriate use of two 1¼" screws used to hold the rudder bearings in place. It took quite a while to isolate the source of the leak. The material used to pack or caulk the screws used to hold the bearing in place eventually failed. While the boat is underway or when the cockpit becomes a gathering place for cocktails or whatever, water seeps into the stern and into the shallow bilge. It’s been a time-consuming and an expensive project to fix the leak caused by an item costing less than $1. If others have had similar problems, I’d love to hear from them and could give them a few tips I learned in making repairs.
Frank Synowiec, Jr.
Edgewater, MD

Dear Frank,
Call W.H. Denouden, 1-800-468-3887. They provided the original parts and might be able to help you out. Please let us know if they are of help.

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