Bill Shaw Answers The Mail - The Pearson Current - Volume 2, #1

BILL SHAW ANSWERS THE MAIL
The Pearson Current - Volume 2, #1 - 1995

I am the owner of a 1976 Pearson 28. The traveller is mounted on a 7/8" track in the cockpit immediately in front of the companionway. I am attempting to modify my system by adding purchase to the traveller. I would like to locate components that I can add to the existing system. Can you please provide me with the name of the manufacturer of the traveller car and the traveller car track? Can you tell me if the manufacturer is still in business and where they can be reached? If they are not, can you provide me with the name of any company that manufactures blocks or camcleats that can be added to this system? Thank you.
— Joseph Purazzella Toms River, NJ

Dear Joseph, From time to time we would purchase different types of marine hardware. Sometimes the manufacturers discontinued an item or phased it out. Unless there is some identification on the traveller itself (it is usually on the car) we have no way of tracking it down (pun intended). I suspect it was a Schaefer. You can call D & R Enterprises in Massachusetts at 508-644-3001, ask for Rudy or Geoffrey. They have been very helpful to NPYOA members with putting together parts and systems such as the one you are working on.

I agree with the statements made by Lazaros Lazardidis, (TPC Vol 1 No 4), regarding the "well-documented difficulty the P35 has backing down." If the water depths permits, I have found that lowering the centerboard about half way allows me to actually steer backing down. Can Bill Shaw tell me why this is so? Am I putting my P35 Revelation in too much danger by doing this? Thank you.
— Steven Schreer Albany, NY

Dear Steven, Most designs with full back keels and a propeller in an aperture have difficulty controlling direction when backing down. The slip stream from the prop is deflected by the aperture causing a side wash when what you want is a nice flow fore and aft.

To reduce this problem back down until you have movement astern then put gear in neutral—with boat moving astern use the rudder to control direction. As the motion slows put the engine in reverse again and repeat the process above.

Sometimes it becomes necessary to put the rudder over hard and give a short thrust ahead to move the stern in the desired direction.

Putting the board down part way adds area to the lateral plan making the boat easier to control.

I would be very cautious doing this. If the board hit a rock or some other object, the force could do serious damage to the board and trunk.

We have a 1984 Pearson 34 with a wobbly rudder. I am afraid that the pin inside is rotting away. Can anything be done to correct this problem?
— Frank and Ann Callari Mahopac, NY

Dear Frank & Ann, We would need much more information and a visual inspection of the rudder and all its parts to give a full assessment of what needs to be done. Where does the rudder wobble? If you hold the quadrant from moving can you move the rudder blades? If you hold the blade can you move the quadrant? The best thing to do is to have someone qualified look at it.

I own a 1973 P-35. The centerboard pin does not show any signs of excessive play, however I have a very small amount of water seeping into the boat where the pin housing is glassed into both sides of the centerboard trunk. I can get to the pin from inside the boat and it appears to be encased in two 1" pipe nipples which protrude from both sides of the trunk. It is where these nipples protrude from the fiberglass that I can see water seeping in. How are these nipples fastened into the sides of the centerboard trunk and how do I repair them? The amount of water seeping in is very small, maybe I should leave it alone?

Question 2: What is the range of positive stability for my P35?
— Richard E. Whiting Rocky Point, NY

Dear Richard, To the best of my recall the CB pin housing consisted of a pipe flange with a short nipple and a pipe cap on each side of the CB trunk. wpe4.jpg (8260 bytes)

The flange with the nipple was screwed together and then glassed to the side of the Centerboard trunk. After the centerboard and pin were in place the pipe cap was installed.

I suspect that after all these years the polyester resin glassing the flange to the trunk is breaking down. It may become necessary to re-glass the installation.

#2 - since the P35 does not have an IMS certificate we do not know the 35’s range of stability. Considering the number of 35’s sailing and the number of years of experience we have had with this design, I feel the boat has ample stability for her intended use.

I understand that Pearson bought the rights & acquired all sailboat parts and molds from Bayliner Marine Corp. sometime around the mid 80’s. Bayliner Corp. manufactured these boats using the US Yachts trade name. Enclosed is some information on a 30ft US Yachts which I currently own. I would appreciate any information you can supply regarding the following questions:

1. Did Pearson use these molds in manufacturing any sailboats & if so what years and models?

2. What happens to the spare parts & boat molds?
— Roy Walters Corpus Christi, TX

Dear Roy, We did acquire the molds but eventually only built a few models. I have no recall as to the models or years built.

We are second season owners of a 1984 Pearson 36' sloop rigged sailboat. We are enjoying the boat very much but have accumulated the following questions which we hope you, or other owners can answer for us.

1. Why does the electrical panel AC ON indicator light flicker and then go out completely as additional electrical loads are added such as the hot water heater and electrical heater?

2. Why does the shower sump pump continually lose its prime? There is a brass item in the discharge side of the line which I assumed to be a check valve?

3. What are the specs for the packing material for the stuffing box?

4. How can I obtain matching gelcoat for the hull?

5. How can I obtain matching blue trim tape for the hull?

6. I feel the Hyde roller furling on the foresail works very hard. I tried to disassemble and lubricate it but was only partially successful. Many parts would not come apart as indicated. Who has successfully taken these apart? How?

7. Last season I mounted an Edson radar tower on the transom and discovered on the port side of the transform interior of the bottom of the boat a fiberglass box. I could not determine any functional purpose for this and it only exists on the port side?

8. What is an adequate size whisker pole for a 150% genoa?

9. I find the open shelves behind the settees do not adequately restrain books and magazines which will not fit upright or end-wise what solutions are recommended for fixing this? Thanks for your timely response.
— Don & Liz Bunch Poughkeepsie, NY

Dear Don and Liz,

1. This could be due to loose connections or a bad ground both of which are potentially very dangerous. We strongly recommend that you have a qualified electrician check it out as soon as possible.

2. Make sure the pump strainer is clean. If there is a check valve it may be clogged. If the pump will not pick up prime, chances are that the impellars are worn out and need to be replaced.

3. Your packing may have been changed since leaving the factory. Many new products and systems have come on the market recently and we would have no way of knowing what was used on your boat. Unless you have done this job before, you might find it best to have it done for you. If you want to find out how it is done you might try to schedule the work so that you can observe it for emergency repairs in the future.

4. Contact Glidden, we used their gel coat. Bear in mind that UV penetration most likely has changed the color somewhat. Different dye lots also might make it very hard to achieve a perfect match. Matching the color is more critical than getting the same brandname gel coat. Many yards have professionals who can come fairly close.

5. E & B or other marine hardware stores carry these products. You might also try a good automotive outlet.

6. Contact the Hyde people. D & R enterprises cited above might also be able to help you out on this question.

7. I do not know what this could be. I do not think it would have been done at the factory. It could possibly be trimming ballast which was glassed in place by a previous owner.

8. I Suggest a telescoping pole that will be 2' to 2.5' longer than the J measurement when fully extended. Different poles have their own tension strengths and this would have to be determined by the specific manufacturer you choose.

9. The open shelves were never intended to restrain large books. We recommend you have a bookcase built or refit the space for your specific needs.